Modern Valve kit and a Stromberg 97 on an slightly upgraded A engine?

D

DK 1929 Model A

New member
Hi from 1929 owner in Denmark

Going to have my engine align bored for modern bearings, and at the same time do some other upgrades / improvements.

I have a machine shop, with a good reputation. A shop with experience in modern bearings ina model A engine, and I have personally used them over the past 30years, for engine work, on other engines.

I am going to make some semi oil pressurizing to the mains, have already done this, two years ago, to the center main.
I have drilled a hole in the oil pump shaft and routed a 6 mm copper pipe to the bottom of the bearing cap.

For rod bearing I am going to fit Renault 4CV rod bearings. Two sets side by side so the sidetrust is going to be the bearing caps.
They are a little to wide, therefore I am going to machine them down so there will be a slight oil grove in the middle.
https://www.arnaudventouxpieces.com...bearings-o3750mm-repair-dimension-050-41.html


My engine has already got an oversize bore, new pistons and a set of new standard valves, adjustable lifters and new guides. Previous owner also did some Hillbilly work to the main bearings. I have rectified the Hillbilly work some, but it is not ideal
This work was all done by the previous owner only 4000 - 5000 km ago!

I have already bought a Burtz Camshaft and a Burtz 6.5:1 Cylinder head.

My questions is.
Should I bother with a modern valve kit, and do you guys think it has any benefits over well functioning standard valves?
Have been looking into this set from Bert`s
https://modelastore.com/products/a-...alves-springs-guides-and-keepers-all-usa-made


Next. When I put a Burtz camshaft and cylinder head on the engine, are there going to be any or a notable power difference, if I put on a Stromberg 97 downdraft carb, and at the same time, if this is the route to go, should I consider a new one or should I buy an old one, and rebuild it?

Leaning towards the rebuild, because the work on it is also part of the fun, but if it has some build in flaws it is not worth it!

Have also been considering just slightly increasing the venturi size of the original Zenith and also do some flow work to the original manifold.

Brian
 
Welcome to the Barn.

The higher compression head and improved cam will improve torque throughout the rpm range. The higher flow carburetor will improve power at the higher rpm. Use either a new or rebuilt 97 carb but you will have to experiment with different jets to get it operating at it's best.

The modern valves are a good upgrade and well worth it.
 
Hello,bought the valve upgrade from Snyders and just fitted it to a Burtz block, have the single lock tappits as the have a larger base .still working on it so can’t say if better performance.
 
The only issue I have with the modern valves is installing the keepers when the engine is installed. Original keepers are much easier to install. Granted, not something you do very often (hopefully never).

I bring this up because recently a member's car stuck a valve and we had to remove it. Getting the modern keepers reinstalled upside-down was a BEE-ATCH...
 
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Y-Blockhead

A little grease will stick the modern keepers in place while you let off on the spring compressor. Stuffing a rag in the hole at the bottom of the valve chamber will keep loose parts from falling into the pan.
 
The valve kit that you gave a link to shows stock sized valves, which is fine for what you are doing. I've run a much higher modified engine that you talk about and have produced 107 horsepower, with stock size valves. Many guys use bigger intake valves, but they are more expensive and not needed unless for racing. You might be interested in my book,4-bangers and me. For details e-mail me at jimb4e4gmail.com. Have fun!
 
nkaminar said:
Y-Blockhead

A little grease will stick the modern keepers in place while you let off on the spring compressor. Stuffing a rag in the hole at the bottom of the valve chamber will keep loose parts from falling into the pan.
Click to expand...
Agreed, that's what we did. Main problem is if you don't keep the retainer EXACTLY centered when releasing the spring compressor, it will knock off one of the keepers. You can't exactly see what you are doing with the engine in the car. Engine out of the car and on an engine stand is another story. Stock is much easier with the single keeper/retainer. 1 part vs 3 parts.

All that said, I have modern valves in my Town Sedan. I just wanted to remind people that newer is not always better...
 
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