8RT Hop up

Fordfan

Fordfan

Junior Member
I have recently aquired a 1952 8RT sidevalve V8 . The engine has been siting indoors for many years, i comp tested it and has 90psi on all cylinders which seems promising.
Being a sidevalve newby i am hoping to fit a cam, 2 x 97 intake, headers and a HEI. Can i get the factory truck cam reground to a better profile? Also hoping to fit a alloy timing gear so do both gears need replacing or can just the cam gear be fitted? Thanks for any help.
 
What is the engine going into? How you modify an engine should vary with it's intended use. An engine for a light roadster should be built differently than one that will be used in a relatively heavy late model sedan or truck. In my opinion, the most important factor when building a flathead is getting the heads fitted properly for optimum quench and compression. After that, it comes down to what you like and can afford. When it comes displacement, "nothing beats cubic inches". (Except cubic money.)

Points distributors perform just fine, and have proven to be more reliable (and predictable) than aftermarket electronic units. Besides, nothing looks better on a built flathead than a classic Mallory "flattop".

I have used aluminum timing gears on three flatheads. After inspection, the steel crankshaft gears looked good, so I left them. I have never had a bit of trouble with any of them. You are wise to use the aluminum gears, as the currently available fiber gears have a bad reputation.
 
I'm running EAB heads and a Chevy converted distributor on the 8ba in my '39 p/u and that would be my recommendation to start. Many options available for a cam and I'm sure others will have suggestions. When I rebuilt the 8ba the original cam was a bit wonky per the machinist. I had another cam which was purported to be from a Merc with no actual proof. Anyway we used it as is. Otherwise stock engine runs strong. Welcome to the flathead world. They are addicting.
 
51504bat said:
I'm running EAB heads and a Chevy converted distributor on the 8ba in my '39 p/u and that would be my recommendation to start. Many options available for a cam and I'm sure others will have suggestions. When I rebuilt the 8ba the original cam was a bit wonky per the machinist. I had another cam which was purported to be from a Merc with no actual proof. Anyway we used it as is. Otherwise stock engine runs strong. Welcome to the flathead world. They are addicting.
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After some research an much discussion, I left the stock 8CM cam in the '51 Merc I installed in my '51 Ford coupe. After 10 years of driving, I think it was the right choice. It probably wouldn't have been if the engine had been going into a much lighter car.
 
Thanks guys, the engine was for a 35 3w but i lost it in divorce, hopefully ill find another.
Im going to remove and repair the oil pan to clean any crud while is off should i replace the rear main seal as this engine has been siting a long time.?
 
The difficulty of removing the top part may make it attractive to just replace the lower 1/2 part.
I know this sounds kinda funky, oh well...

Karl
 
Yes, your cam can be reground to a different grind if you'd like. There is a cam grinder in CA that will grind the 8CM Merc specs but with more lift (.380"). I have one of these grinds for a 59AB. Seems like it gives you the best of both worlds. A "hot" stock/production cam with more lift. You would need to clearance stock heads to use this grind, but it would work with most new aluminum heads.

If you are interested, I could send you his information.

In the meantime, take a look at this site. It gives you a lot of information about cam shafts and different types of grinds.

 
There is a cam grinder in CA that will grind the 8CM Merc specs but with more lift (.380"). I have one of these grinds for a 59AB.

Not possible in my opinion Tim. Would love to see all timing numbers.
 
KiWinUS said:
There is a cam grinder in CA that will grind the 8CM Merc specs but with more lift (.380"). I have one of these grinds for a 59AB.

Not possible in my opinion Tim. Would love to see all timing numbers.
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Sure thing, Tony. I'll send them to you. May not be until early next week.
 
8RT indicates a truck motor or at least truck cylinder heads. They have big chambers so most folks replace them with higher compression heads. The pan and clutch housing may be truck along with water pumps. The truck sump is deeper than the Mercury type but is still usable along with the bell housing if you have all that too.
 
The engine is very complete, it has the cast mid bell and starter and plate too. Do you know if i can use the truck style oil pan on a 35/36 ford?
 
The truck stuff works but the clutch may be the big 11-inch "Long" type. Some folks use them but others don't like the spring pressure which makes the pedal push a little on the heavy side. The 9" and 10 " Long clutches were used on the lighter passenger cars of the 30s and 40s and light commercial pickups. The 11" was used with the 4-speed truck transmission. It's a heavy unit so it slows engine rpm build a good bit. Most Folks look for a 10" but it also depends on what transmission is used and what vehicle it goes into..
 
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