Recent content by zoegrant

Got the car to start. The #1 problem was that all the plugs were badly sooted. And then when I exchanged out the coil i rewired it backwards. When DROLSTON post he mentioned the wiring with the pos to the battery and the neg to the distributor and sure enough I had reinstalled it in reverse...

ok, I cleaned and gapped the plugs as they were dirty, also used some starting fluid to no avail, still no start. The only thing I haven`t done is changed the gas, it is a year old with gas stabilizer in it. I am leaning toward a distributor problem. I do have a friend that is a professional...

car was converted to 12v....I will look at the plugs tomorrow. Can the wires for the external resistor we switched to establish a no start situation ?

I just now saw that Mac had a ****** class. I should have asked not if, but when will be the next one ?

Does Mac have a ****** school ?

Is it possible that when I changed out the external coil resistor that I rewired it wrong ? The resistor has only two male connections, one goes to ignition switch and one goes to the negative side of the coil. If they were reversed would it make any difference ? Color coding of wires have no...

i did try starting fluid and gas down the carb and the fuel bowl is full. No trips to gas station. I did install a new resistor as the other one was damaged. I have not changed the condenser. I will try that next. Would the condenser prevent a no start condition or a start and stop condition ?

I have. two cars that use the same coil and I swapped the one from the one car that does start to see if that was the problem, still no start

Hi to all, Had my 40 ford running outside for it`s once a month run. I brought the car back in the garage and shut key off till next month start up which brings us to now. Car wont start, battery fully charged, engine turns over freely, carb squirting gas, Coil putting out spark. I removed...

In my opinion the 39 Lincoln Zephyr was one of the best designs ever...the side profile is heart stopping...

The seal will sit down into a recessed area on the outside of the solenoid. Yes you will see how it sits when you remove the solenoid. No need to hook power to the solenoid when removing it. Just push it in slightly by hand and turn counter clockwise and pull, it should come right out.

Thanks for posting that. There are really some talented people out there.

I have replaced a few overdrive solenoids on the R10 and if you twist and pull the solenoid out very quickly with the new one ready to immediately slip in and turn you will not loose much oil. Keep some type of catchall to capture what ever drips out then you can add just the right amount. Best...

Thanks guys...will commence my search...

Anyone install disk brakes on their 55 Ford full size car ? If so, who sells the kit ? Thanks