Recent content by wellcraft17

The original sending unit probably has oxidation, corrosion on the points causing bad readings and can be cleaned if you are very careful with 1000 wet and dry sand paper. Pop the cap off the sender and carefully slide a small strip of sand paper between the points and pull it back and forth...

Could be wheel cylinders have gotten rusty, corroded over time due to moisture and the pistons don’t move in and out smoothly thus the brakes aren’t being applied evenly causing vehicle to pull to one side. Replace or rebuild the cylinders and the issue may go away. To alleviate the cylinders...

The lip of the seal should be facing out, towards the transmission. The one on the left is correct. The one on the right is not a real clear picture but maybe installed upside down.

What vehicle do you need a condenser for?

Good information oldave, i looked in my 55 & 56 shop manuals and didn’t see this information. Im going back and review the text portion and maybe I’ll find it. Cos is correct, very hard to measure ID without the correct small inside micrometer

I’ve been working on ford motors since 1955 when I got my 55 custom line with a 223 six after that had a 272 and now I have a 292 with 91000 on the odometer. I don’t ever recall seeing numbers on what the rocker arm to shaft should be. Just always adjusted the valves when they got a little loose...

I’ve always used tractor supply 00 grease in a qt container or John Deere corn head grease is about the same.

Attach a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold and adjust the two air screws to get the highest reading on the gauge and you should be good to go.

I had a similar problem and I readjusted my float setting to 1.5” and it now idles perfect. What probably was happening is the fuel level in the bowl was to high and with the carb getting heat soaked the fuel is percolating into the Venturi and down into the engine thus causing the engine to...

My 55 ford had a copper gasket on the plug. Always cleaned the plug and area around the pan threads and applied a little silicone seal, never had any leaks.

I’ve used a C clamp to compress the spring and then push out the pin. If memory serves me correctly I’ve used a bench vise also.

Thank you for everyone’s input, still hesitant about messing up the flywheel, bendix teeth. Have never seen any first hand accounts where teeth have been destroyed only opinions and story’s.

Looking for any input from someone who has installed a 6 V starter in their 12V vehicle. What changes/parts were made, what issues have you encountered since installing,how is it working? The reason I’m considering changing is I want my motor to spin over faster.

Re: '57 F-100 heat cont I use a 1978 jeep cj5 heater control valve which is identical to the one in your picture. You might have to modify The on & off portion of the valve based on if it closes the flow by pushing or pulling the cable. I had to modify mine on my 56 F100. The original one...

Another thing to check is to make sure the fuse is firmly snapped into the holder as over time they can loosen up.