Recent content by WBrown

IF, you change to a crab cap configuration, be sure and use the correct rotor. The "rabbit ear" rotor is not compatible with a crab cap.

Anyone out there with DOT 4 experience?

Thank you sir! A big DUH on my part as I only considered you tube instead of the Ford forums (the real sources),

Anyone have suggestions or can direct me to information on how to best install fender welting. FWIW I have a 1947 fordor sedan. Any assistance appreciated.

Do you have the correct rotors? I changed from rabbit ear distributor cap to crab and it required the corresponding rotor.

Are you using a speedy sleeve on the crank pulley? Mine has a reverse spiral groove in it to (I assume) decrease oil loss which plays heck with the one piece seal. Speedy sleeve covers the groove and protects the one piece seal. I have no problem with leaks.

No mice in my vehicles, however, we DO have a couple owls that hang around the place:D

I recently have become the owner of a King magneto/coil/condenser tester Model 24-603 sans instruction manual. Anyone out there familiar with these units? Would greatly appreciate any info you could offer on its operation. Thank you in advance.

He also has a "special" sense of know how;)

Same here, just takes a bit of patience to get them in an inner tube:eek:

AND--Make sure your bleeder hose doesn't have any holes in it!! (don't ask how I know)

WOW! THANKS LARGE Nice to be able to preserve the headliner.:)

Can the courtesy light wire be fished through the A pillar etc? My '47 Fordor has the original headliner and alas the only wire in the harness that hasn't been replaced.

Within 50-75 RPM. Used my timing light tach (which is accurate) as the benchmark. As mentioned, just looking for a guideline as to RPMs vs road speed.

No. 8 plug wire closest to firewall driver's side (if I have my numbering right)