Recent content by VT Cruzan

My '31 Coupe has a Marvel as well. I know it has been on the car since at least 1954. There has never been a problem with it.

I have installed a number of these cut out switches on a bracket attached to the left side of the steering column. Always on the ground side between the positive battery post and a good ground. It is an easy location to reach and quickly becomes a step in the starting and shutting down routine.

Bought a quart of "Ford engine green paint" part number RSP6Q for $24.99 from Macs this winter. I have only run the motor for a total of two hours since painting it. So far it looks fine.

My 1931 Coupe had one front shock only when I bought it 50 years ago and it was seized. I took it off and ran it that way until a year ago when I installed the tube shock kit from Snyders. It made for a more stable but much firmer ride. It's an easy installation.

This used to happen on my Ford 9N tractor occasionally. I kept the correct sized wrench in the tractor's tool box to loosen it. Didn't have to remove it, just jiggle it. The bendix would snap back.

I always shut off the gas and wait for the motor to stall before turning off the ignition. Two reasons: (1) prevent gas overtflow in case the float valve does not seal completely and (2) reduce corn meal buildup in the carburetor from evaporated ethanol gas. That being said, it sounds like it...

Hmmm... another road trip destination. Reminds me of the Heritage Museum in Fort Nelson, BC which has a fascinating collection of vehicles and equipment used in the construction of the Alaska Highway in 1942.

The gaskets have glands on one side only presumably to fit into the exhaust manifold ports. Problem is the gland diameter is too large.

Has anyone used the copper clad manifold gaskets with the "glands" built into the exhaust ports? I find the od of the copper "gland" portion is 1.549" whereas the id of the reliefs in exhaust ports on the manifold is 1.471". My initial thought is to modify the glands to fit. Any ideas?

I had my paint supplier match the Kewanee green and Elkpoint green from a couple of areas I buffed to find the original colors. Imagine my surprise to find this 1931 standard coupe was two tone! As this was going to be a driver, I was not concerned about losing points in a show. I wanted a...

I would be glad to give it to you alexiskai. As a "junior" member, I am unclear how to message you directly for your address.

It is exactly like the photo Alexiskai posted on 1/3/22. As mine was jammed, it did not affect timing advance. I used the spark lever on the steering column and the engine response was as normal. Probably been stuck for the 50 years I have owned the car. The only reason I took it all apart...

Thanks for the replies. It does look like what Bob C posted a photo of except the spring steel part is a different configuration. I can see, looking at the design now, that it would advance the timing by centrifugal force. It was stuck in an off-center position due to worn pins. The real...

1. My 1931 Standard Coupe has a universal joint between the oil pump drive and the distributor shaft. The joint and shaft are quite worn causing close to 90 degrees of play in the rotor. (It runs remarkably well but is a challenge to set the timing!) There is a spring steel oil pump retainer...