Recent content by VFRhugh

Could be a hairline crack in the housing.

Selling a running Chassis follow link below for details. $2000. I'm located in Mont Belvieu, TX http://pages.suddenlink.net/vfrhugh/Model_A_Chassis/Model_A_Chassis.html SOLD Thanks for looking

Dave, I've been following this thread for awhile and one thing that hasn't been mentioned is the wishbone fitment. It's not just the front and rear motor mount but the wishbone ball and socket that all have to align. If the cross member hole is off the wishbone ball should be off the same...

Might be impossible to pupp apart. https://houston.craigslist.org/pts/6086151343.html

+1 on Ken Davis shocks.

I'm running a 6:1 head with the B copper gasket torqued to 55#. No problems but I did retorque every heat cycle till it stayed at 55#. Also had the block and new head surfaced before installing. Hugh

Good reason to have a Mitchell. This is with a 3.78:1 ratio @ 1.26% over drive. As usual, can't control the picture rotation.

That would have been quite the "carry on"��

I purchase a used Mitchell complete with differential, struts, and spring. Don't need the original rear end.

I put a rear axle with struts, & spring in the Houston Craig's list for $300. No takers:( It came off my 30 Tudor when I installed a Mitchell. Too bad your not closer as I would gladly give it to you. Hugh

Pulled my engine 4 weeks ago because I missed the clearance on #3 rod bearing and damaged the Babbitt. Anyway I finished the repair today and reaffirmed an engine won't run without the rotor!!

I did it but it is a potentially dangerous endeavor. Just didn't want to encourage anyone to crawl under a running car. Had mine in neutral, butted up to my garage, double blocked wheels, & rear wheels off the ground on jack stands. Hugh

Antique Engineering has a great write up on rear main leaks. Other than inspecting the rear main dip tube, dropping the pan isn't going to get you much. Although I don't advocate doing this oil can be seen running out the back of the rear main bearing cap with the engine running & inspection...

After unbolting the rear spring U bolts the spring pack will only be held together by the center bolt. Be sure to keep out of the line of fire if it should fail. I wrapped a chain around mine last time. A couple of clamps could work also. Hugh

Following up, my steel float needle started leaking so I installed the needle & seat from Steiner Tractor. It wasn't that straightforward though. Since the needle & seat are a set I had to destroy the old seat to install the new one. The new needle is considerably lighter than the original...