Recent content by van Dyck

It looks similar to my boring bar made by Storm Manufacturing in Minneapolis Minnesota. The drive end is chain driven instead of gear driven like yours seems to be. The centering device looks to be similar. The fly cutter looks similar also. I've bored several engines with it. No idea what...

Thanks Tubman! I went online and found White Post Restorations. They say they won't sleeve cylinders if DOT5 fluid is used! It causes me to wonder why? Is there anyone near north central Virginia who's had cylinders rebuilt by them or knows of their reason for not sleeving cylinders...

Thanks for all the various responses ! I am going to try a new pair of non-stainless steel cylinders when I take the car out of storage next spring. And probably do some bubble testing on the S-S lined cylinders. Happy Christmas Fordbarn residents. John

Hello - I've been away from here for more than a year having had brain surgery to correct an aneurysm problem. I am recovering. It is slow. When I came home from the hospital, I was itchen to drive my roadster, took it out of cold storage and noticed a wet area in the vicinity the of the...

When using the drill press, insert a used valve in the chuck for a flat surface to push against the spring. Use your depth stop to provide your spring height dimension. I've done thousands of springs that way. It's not hi-tech but it will get the job done.

What was Ford's reason for off-setting the crankshaft in his engines if not for producing more low RPM torque? MikeK: Thanks for sharing your research. The long connecting rod along with the lower combustion pressure on top of the piston is going to be much "kinder" on cylinder wall thrust...

My Sears DVOM is not accurate on voltage measurements. I do use it for checking ohms resistance in modern secondary ignition wires, and for continuity testing. I also prefer analog meters. However, they vary one with another. At the school where I taught Mechanics, we would do a comparison...

If you are not reusing the races, run a bead of arc weld on the bearing surface and let it cool. The race will practically fall out on its own.

All rear axles leak lube into the "tubes" only when the vehicle is tilted enough for that to happen. When on the level, the lube occupies the lower 3" of the center section, and the crown gear acts like a paddle wheel to distribute lube to the pinion gear and bearings. As others have stated...

Fourdy, I thought a few pictures might help. You'll need a good GM solenoid and pull the coil part out of the "can". Use a hacksaw to circumcise the rear of the can - be careful not to cut into the coils. At the switch end (plastic cap removed) snip the wire spot welded to the can as close to...

T wheels have a 5" bolt circle, A wheels are 5 1/2".

I made my own using a GM solenoid, a trickle charger and some iron bar. Magnetic powder and a "puffer" from Goodson's in Winona, MN.

Bent is right when it comes to quality of equipment. The spray tip needs to be correct, not almost! The air orifices need to be accurately drilled in relationship to the fluid orifice, and you can't tell just by looking. Where and how the air breaks up the fluid is crucial to a nice paint...

Don't have a lot of experience on the model T, but, I'm on "T" Barn almost every day!

The question I have: are the rods, crank and babbit bearings up to it?