Thank you for the input, that’s a great idea to clamp it and then I can do the bucking from the outside of the sill/subrail. I believe I can fashion a clamping tool so I can get a straight line access to the rivet . Thank you guys again for the ideas
I thank you so very for the feedback. I do want to secure the door post and the quarter pillar to the sill but to buck the two uppermost rivets I have the rivet gun at such a steep angle it seems as though the rivet would be driven in an upward angle. Do you have a technique that might help...
I had to completely change the subframe/subassembly due to rust, same with the “c” pillar. I’ve used rivets for all the crossmembers to Subrails but am having trouble getting straight line access to the bottom of the door post and “c” pillar to buck rivets. Does anyone have an idea on fastening...
I used citric acid in a big plastic livestock watering tank. I bought 5 gal of citric acid and it’s mixed @10-1 mixture it soaked for a week or so and then pressure washed the part, I had great success. I applied phosphoric acid to keep it rust free. The problem you have to dismantle the body.
Thank you one and all for the input, this piece found its way into my epoxy primer pieces and for the life of me I can’t find where this puzzle piece goes. I think it was in with assorted pieces parts that came with the car. Thanks again for the help guys
Hello Sir, my name is Gary Thomas. Much like you I’m also a veteran (Air Force). I’m building a 31 Tudor and am also painting mine Chicle and copra. I’m having difficulty finding the formula or paint code for the paint. Could I impose on you to share the paint code and brand of paint, I really...
I’m in need of a supplier of the metal piece that attaches to the vertical support and the subassembly. This part also has the slot for the rear quarter kick panel, Please see photo. If you have one for sale or know of a supplier please PM me, Thank you, Gary
Thank you all for the input on repairing the inner wheel well, thanks to you all I’ve decided to keep the one well that was about 40 percent gone. I’ve practiced welding for about two straight days and might just make it happen.
I’m in the process of repairing/replacing an rear inner wheel well for my 31 Tudor. One side is repairable the other has to be replaced. I’m Soliciting advice on whether to lap or butt weld the patch panel that I bought years ago. Also, should I stitch weld the joint or spot weld? Any help...
Re: 31 Tudor “C” pillar placement to subrail
Thanks rotowrench for the reply, it sounds like a plan. I’m flying blind out here sometimes and these inputs and assists helps greatly, thank you
Re: 31 Tudor “C” pillar placement to subrail
Brent, thank you for the quick reply and for helping us with the correct model A terminology. Hopefully I’ve attached two pictures showing my dilemma with the rear floor side sill (it’s completely useless). I was able to source two pretty usable...
31 Tudor “C” pillar placement to subrail
My subrail has completely rusted away where the “C” pillar is rivited to the subrail. I am building a complete subframe and need an exact measurement of where the 3 holes are located on the subrails. Can anyone help me, please?