Recent content by tombarb33

I have 2 sets of 33 headlights. One pair is all stainless steel and the other is stainless except for the internal front lip where the lense fits. This part is mild steel. Once the front ring is attached the headlights look identical. The external markings are also identical. Is one pair an...

Barn Junk described the 50's perfectly. I put together several flatties in the 50's, but ended up with a sbc in my 33-3 window for the reasons stated. I still have the same 33 with a sbc. Whether you like them or not, Ed Cole designed a pretty decent little motor back when I was a kid...

The 80,s Mopar hub/rotor is an economical swap, requiring only a sleeve for the inner (large) bearing. I believe they are 5 on 4 3/4 so would need to be drilled for the 5 on 4 1/2.

I agree it's frustrating that "New" parts need to be repaired before they work. That being said, I don't think the rotor/cap gap is super critical as long as there is plenty of clearance to prevent interference. Also, the rotor/cap indexing would need to be outside the width of the rotor/cap...

Been there, done that. If you have all new king pins, bushings, tight tie rod ends, tight drag link, no slack in steering box, no movement steering box-to-frame or wishbone ball-to-frame, balanced hubs, balanced wheels/tires, proper torque on spindle bearings, tires round and straight, it is...

Thanks for the info. I figured any preload would be small.

I suspect the same or excessive lash letting the sector roller hammer the worm. I've got 4 or 5 of these boxes and seen several others. Most have worm gears that look chipped, not worn, at the center (high point of the worm). Not what you would expect from lack of lube or extreme wear...

Is a preload torque required on the sector shaft adjustment or do you just adjust out any slack? f

I used 34 fenders on a 33 and the fit at the bottom point of the grille wasn't right by about 3/4 inch. Some metal working fixed it, but I'm curious if this was a problem with my set of fenders or common to all 34 fenders on a 33. They seemed to fit the 33 splash aprons fine.

Thanks for the input on the steering offset. Should the contact intersect point (kingpin axis and tire center) be the same point or inboard/outboard relative to each other? Re balancing the tires, sorry I wasn't clear in my list of things I've done. The shop balanced the wheels with the tires...

Thanks for the input. I haven't checked the camber, but looking headon from a distance, the camber looks the same at both wheels. I'll measure it. Is steering offset related to the center of travel of the box?

I hadn't tackled the caster yet as I wasn't sure 2-3 degrees would cause a shimmy problem. That might be it though, as there is not much left to change.

Thanks for the input. The car is a 33 coupe. The tires seemed to be all that's left I've tried all the normal things ie. new king pins/bushings (reamed to tight fit), tie rod ends are tight, same on drag link, F1 box adjusted to no slack, rebuilt shocks adjusted "stiff", balanced wheels...

I'm sure this question has been discussed many times, but, does the type tire ( radial, bias, belted) effect shimmy on beam axle Fords?