Recent content by Stinch

electronic voltage regulator

The red coupe looks to be a high radiator 1924 model year. 1923 model year T coupes had a low radiator and suicide doors.

The cars tilt could be from the head of spring bolt slipping out of the square hole in the cross member. Most of the time that's the problem. Careful though, if the spring bolt head hole in frame has gotten bigger from being loose for so long, that is a harder fix since the proper repair would...

In my humble opinion, the cowl lamps detract from the value. If I were buying, I'd wonder what else was done. No big deal to correct anyway. The trailer hitch would do nothing for me since the car is already heavy, towing anything would be a chore. As for the oval tank knowledge, I own a 24 T...

24-25 coupes definitely had an oval tank under the front seat and not a square tank in the trunk.

The 1924 and 25 model year coupes had a functioning cowl vent. Steve describes it well. I have some pictures of my '24 vent somewhere and can post if it can help. The same model year coupes did not have those cowl post mounted lamps when they left the factory. Would like to see more...

Looking forward to the meet. See you Sunday!

I'll be there, although my car isn't ready. Rich

Ed I've used the tool that you describe. I'll set it up on a shift tower and post some pictures. Rich

Mike's Affordable looks to have a better molded part. I've ordered a set to compare and will report back.

Pictures found in a fine point article in the Jan-Feb 2007 Model "A" News (Vol 54 No. 1) on page 28 appear to confirm this setup. Unfortunately poorly molded rubber seals can shift the cups to be less effective.

I found three different rubber seals in the parts bin. Number 1 on the left was bought a year or so ago. Numbers 2 and 3 are from unknown suppliers, perhaps from the 70's. These two are better than 1 because the hole has more than enough rubber to keep the post away from the metal cup. They...

I have oval holes in the shock links for my 1930 A. The grease seal is the oval type found at most suppliers. With the pictured setup and the hole in the rubber seal that appears too offset, the post for the shock arm and perch will rub on the metal cup.

Should the grease seal for the tube type shock link look like this? Seems to me the hole in seal should be centered to the opening in the cup. In my case, the seal is an aftermarket part and the cup is original. Rich

For me, a picture is worth a thousand words. Based on an article in the 1967 Restorer, Vol 12 Issue 1 Pages 7-8. Quote: "the hole in these parts is not in the center and the offset side is assembled down at the shock arm and up at the perch ball". This makes sense to me since the thicker end...