Recent content by SteveR.

He just happened to be in the area (over an hour away though) and offered to stop by. Very relieved to not have to pull an engine a 3rd time in 2 years. All I want is an engine that will last 40k to 50k miles, minimum, with typical maintenance.

Some of you may remember my thread from a few weeks ago on my $3,800 engine "overhaul". For what it's worth, I called the builder about 6:30 this evening to tell him about the issue. Not only did he take my call after hours, at 9:30PM, he pulled into my driveway, voluntarily loaded the car...

Appreciate everyone's input very much. I may try to haul the car to the builder and see what he comes up with... unfortunately that is a 6 hour round trip drive pulling a trailer. I will keep everyone informed once I speak to him and take time to diagnose.

I generally shift 2nd to 3rd at probably half the RPM I'm at when driving 45mph. Similar 1st to 2nd.

I've had my '30 Tudor about 4 years. The first engine a valve seat came loose and destroyed a piston. The 2nd engine I bought used, locally for $1,000, and believe it was a junk engine, it was losing a lot of oil from day 1....took just a few months of driving before something came apart...

My mistake, I put a magnet on it and the line is steel, not aluminum.

Woke up this morning to a house that smelled like gas because I forgot to turn off the fuel valve on the "A". Decided to try to fix it right, it has been an ongoing issue for months, and didn't go away with a newly overhauled carb. The fuel line had essentially been shrunk over the years from...

I have 1930 TX plates on my Tudor. It is my weekend car, so it is often at the grocery store, hardware store, or wherever else I need to go. I only have the rear plate installed as I've wondered if someone would steal these. Since they would be reported stolen maybe they aren't terribly...

On my just-overhauled engine I had a plug leaking like this. I added anti-seize to the plug threads and I believe that has stopped the leaking. Now I'm wondering if I have a ring issue...guess I need to look at the plugs as well as watch for oil consumption. The engine has around 200 miles on it.

Thanks for posting this. I've had this problem for a while, but it recently/randomly got much worse. I added the bushing from Brattons, cleaned/oiled & straightened the light switch rod and it works perfectly now, no friction at all between the steering wheel and light switch. Previously a...

Is this the right stuff? Mine are loose as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K4SFP4D/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I traded an airplane for my '30 Tudor. The plane was a "Pietenpol Air Camper", designed by a farmer in Minnesota in the 20s, and originally outfitted with a Ford Model A engine. Many people still build/fly them that way today.

Anyone know a shop in the Fort Worth area that can assemble the hubs, drums & lugs for me?

Ken, I have a friend in East TX I told I would come visit soon...I'll give you a call, I may bring my brakes with me. Thanks for the input everyone!

Re: What is a "reasonable" speed in a Model A for one to get "reasonable" engine life Mr. Model T in College Station.