Recent content by sofield

Now we know why it makes sense to take a hard look at the Burtz Engine as a comparison that has been reengineered to eliminate the failures of the "A" engine and at a reasonable cost when you compare to a proper rebuild of an 85+year old engine.

I would bet on the ground to battery connections or starter switch on top of starter Goood luck. Sofield

Hello Jim, Do you remember or know the part number of the diaphragm clutch or the year of the Ford Ranger pickup? What is the bolt mounting pattern like or is it the same as the early V8? You answer is appreciated. Sofield

Very simple: You need the following: A 5/16” bolt or threaded rod that is long enough to pass through two bushings and the distributor bore, two washers and nuts. Put a washer and bushing on one end and pass it through the distributor and put a washer and nut on. Make sure distributor bore is...

Very simple solution: You need a 5/16 bolt or threaded rod that is long enough to pass through the distributor plus the length of two bushings. put a washer or a washer and nut at both ends of the of the threaded rod. If a bolt is used use a washer at the bolt head and a washer and nut at the...

Just put an ad in the wanted section of the Barn and you will be surprised at the response.

Good question, As designed the stock mounts with the rubber pads and bolted to the engine was an integral part of the structure of the frame and acted as a cross member. The float a motor mounts may allow easy replacement of the engine but you loose the original frame support. These 85 year old...

I have seen this before. The reason that this was done was the cross member was cracked and instead of replacing the cross member this was the easiest way to correct the problem. You should be able to confirm the crack by looking for at the cross member from the engine compartment.

top down, pitman arm off, Starter out, both pedals off, column comes right out

I did mean grade #8

Contact Bolt Depot in MA. You can get the six necessary 1/4" recessed bolts that will be flush with the top of frame including the other 8 bolts for the sides and bottoms of the frame in #8.

Does the car sag on the drivers side? This would be a good reason for the problem. I believe the quote in #3 has hit the nail on the head. Sofield

Adjust the plug so it is flush and one additional turn until the cotter pin can be installed.

Did you remove the key in the keyway after you removed the emg arm?

When trying to adjust the fingers on the clutch plate, is the plate bolted to the flywheel and disc and the adjustment being between 5/8 & 11/16 after final adjustment Your answers are appreciated.