Recent content by Sheldon Paulger

I have a Float a motor kit installed in the rear engine mounts of my 1930 Coupe. The rubber donuts are very stiff, in my mind not giving much vibration absorption. Has anyone tried replacing the rubber donuts with springs? Thks Sheldon

Is there a 4 cyl distributor with centrifugal advance available at auto wreckers that would fit a Model A (with minimum modifications)? Thks Sheldon

I will double check that today, but pretty sure I have done that with no change---will let you know.

Knock is only under load and 2000 rpm +. Can not hear knock sitting still and revving the engine with no load. Noise is there in all gears at 2000+.

my car has the armoured cable coming directly from the ignition switch---this must be the pop out ign switch (although is does not pop out, the cylinder that the key fits into does protrude sits out beyond the face of the instrument panel.) I went inside the dist and brought a wire outside from...

It is knock that was there from day one of the overhaul (but fairly quiet). The knock seems to be getting louder at 2000 rpm and above. Analysis of the oil shows high copper, iron, lead, and tin.

Thks for the reply. I originally connected to the input side of the gen cut out, but there is insufficient voltage until about 800-1000 rpm. If possible, I'd like to have an ign key source.

Has any one come up with a way to have 6v switched on and off by the ignition key?

I had my 1930 model A engine rebuilt about 1200 miles ago. It was rebored, babbitt removed and shell bearings installed. I could hear a light knock from the beginning. The engine re-builder claimed all was normal. Last winter, he agree to re-inspect the engine if I removed it from the frame. He...

Hi have a Synders high compression head on my 30 coupe. The cranking has become very slow. The starter will barely turn the engine over and draws about 500 amp and batt voltage drops to less than 4 volts. The engine is very stiff to turn over on hand cranking particularly on compression stroke...