Recent content by Richard Redmond

Boy, what a coincidence. I posted on this forum in 2013 about my Bill Stipe shocks. This week I was fretting as I couldn’t recall what fluid/oil to use in them or other details, and I couldn’t find any instructions!! Bam! Oil details and a copy of the instructions. Thank you so much!

To Y Blockhead .... That’s a nice set of spanner’s you have there....

I'd be grateful for advice and identification of these two door handles that were sold to me some time ago from the US as suitable for a 1929 Roadster. Well, I don't think they're right for that car. The closest I can match them to is the 28/29 Coupe or Tudor (although from catalogue pictures...

Doug Hudspeth of Zenith2.com Texas - he did a fantastic job for me. Digital photos of the rebuild and he road tests the carb after the rebuild.

Yes - Andalusite Blue, over black wheels, fenders etc (including the radiator shell). Plus French Grey pinstripe (looks possible on my computer monitor). AB, FG stripe over black - correct for 1929.

Sorry to make a second comment - I looked again at the initial photo - assuming that the screw is not at an angle in the carb float chamber top (as it looks a little ? due to tilt) would it not be very awkward to adjust the needle valve once the throttle spindle and throttle arm are in place?

Just nipped out to the garage to check my Marvel carb. No extra needle screw, just the vent hole. Someone will probably explain that there was a series or variant from the factory that had this needle screw, but for the moment I would assume that many years ago, someone found a needle valve...

I run one on my 1929 roadster despite having a beautiful, restored Zenith. Starting is very good. My mileage each year is very low so I have only an intuitive feeling that performance is just fine.

The CTEK UC 800 swedish-made charger is an excellent piece of kit.

Hmmm. Thanks to 1955cj5 for the prompt pictures. His cast iron boss appears to measure roughly 13/16 in height. Mine is less at 11/16 and the rim, which at first glance looks chamfered, is irregularly 'chipped'. The shaft is 10" long So, I'll run this pump as it came with the car and engine...

I'm rebuilding my 1929 water pump which I had previously 'rebuilt' about 5 years ago. I confess to being puzzled by the rear bushing and found this thread after a search. My initial thought was the grease holes do need to be aligned, but I now see that if the external groove aligns with the...

The pop-out ignition switch is one of the most fun and fascinating things about the Model A. There is plenty of information about them - and worth a read. I chose to replace my replica non-pop-out with an original of the right year. First, you may be sacrificing the accessory terminal on the...

Maclab58's original question was whether anyone thought his photos showed evidence of cylinder head cracks at the bolt holes. My own view is that there are rough casting marks but no actual cracks shown in the photos. Is this a shared opinion?

Hi Charlville, Newshirt has given you a pretty thorough tear down and rebuild list. You may also want to try the article 'Care & Feeding of the Model A Horn", p.103 of Vol. 1, How to Restore Your Model A, 2nd. edition.

Hi Step-Down, I was encouraged to use the Allstate 2405 I found in my 29 Roadster's trunk, particularly by JD Miller. I've used it for 2 years now (admittedly very low mileages) and prefer to keep my beautifully restored Doug Hudspeth Zenith on a shelf (sad but true). Here are some links that...