Recent content by Res731

1931 Ford Model A Tudor partial restoration. Chasis restored, body is not and is not mounted. Numbers matching enging/frame. Comes with ohio title plus extra parts (fenders, starters, carbs, machined engine block, and more). Located in Cleveland, Ohio area asking $5,000 obo. Need to sell...

Hi Andy I drilled a hole in the end of the brake shaft and also a small cross hole on the sides so I could add my own geeese fitting.

I believe the rear emergency brake carrier is warped on my 1931. Is it possible to fix this or is it a replace only? I have earlier bands without the tabs available, are these ok to use or do I need tabbed ones and can you mix them on different sides left/right? Many thanks

Hi Mel Have you run into the dust ring binding due to wear of the backplate “channel”? I think that’s my issue now where the ring can bind in there. I have it riveted in place and not sure if I should find new backing plates, get rid of the dust rings or leave it as is. Rudy

I guess that's my case, it's warn like you said. I'm thinking of removing the dust ring and putting in a rubber o ring instead

It seems it's the dust ring that binds up. The lever is loose now but as I spin the arm the dust ring binds every so often when i spin it. I'm tempted to leave it but if the ring gets in the right spot the arm will hang up. It is like there is too much space and the ring gets down into the...

I purchased new camshafts for the rears and reusing the existing service brake arms. After assembling with the rivets I discovered I forgot the dust ring. So I dissembled and purchased the dust ring. Problem is when I try to install, the service arm is binding when i try to spin it...

Do any of the vendors make the correct bolts for the torque tube to banjo? I broke one today and need a replacement. Otherwise, any ford barners have an extra they could ship me? Rudy

Sometimes the pins/hinges get a bit bent, try opening the door part way and then removing them. On my passenger side, this did the trick and made them very easy to remove.

Attached is a picture of the bearing that runs in the front of the torque tube. I read that the repro’s are not that good and to use the original if possible. There is a bit of putting on the one roller but otherwise it appears fine. Should I replace it? Rudy

I wonder if you do didn't have the new breaks trued to the hub when first installed. If not, you could have worn the high spots and now have less breaking against the drums. Might be as simple as a bit of adjustment needed. Try the procedure purdy mentioned and see if you adjustments were...

Hi Tom. When I took the pinion off I used one of the vendor wrenches for near the banjo and a large adjustable wrench on the outer one. That seemed to work to remove it at least

I had a little play on my king pins, but after putting in new bushings and reaming them they feel pretty good.

Hi fred. That's what I tried but I ended up with vastly different shim thickness compared to when I used the new bearings. At least that was my experience. On a positive note, I put the pionion race in freezer and heated the banjo a bit with a heat gun. The race dropped in like a charm and...

Just adding a follow up to complete this thread. I would caution anyone trying to use trial or setup bearings to get a guess on how many shims would be needed under the carrier bearings. I spent quite a bit of time determining this all by using setup bearings. When I went ahead and put in the...