Recent content by ratmother

Even T frame stamping info is a little fuzzy - I think I read that T frame stamping commenced on December 12, 1925 on right frame rail, but my 1926 RPU’s frame has a December 15 1925 number stamped on the left frame rail with a January 16, 1926 engine number. As we know, engines, frames, etc...

Those petcocks are used to check oil level for engine and transmission which share the same sump. Keep oil level between upper and lower petcock.

First time at the Long Beach Swap Meet - had a great time!��☘️

Have you cleaned your timer and checked the timing? Check the wiring from the coilbox also. As mentioned in the original post check for manifold vacuum leaks.

Had the same problem with my ‘31 a couple months ago - had run great on way to a restaurant. After breakfast she started right up but died before I got out of the parking lot and behaved as described above - would start right up and die within a few seconds. Distributor was fine but I swapped...

1929 Bentley “Old Number One” driven by Woolf Barnato and Tim Birklin won the 1929 and 1930 “24 Hours of Lemans”.

I have a Bolt Buster and like it a lot. So far, it’s handled everything I’ve thrown at it. I prefer it over oxy-acetylene - targets the heat well and avoids open flame. As far as recommendations, be patient if removing head, manifold or water pump studs. I heat and cool the stud and melt a...

Took Uncle Buck out for a ride to celebrate his 100th birthday and New Years. Was a little damp, but a beautiful day. Will take the A for a drive tomorrow.

Sphooch - the emblem on my ‘31 was missing except for the steel cap-shaped part that secures it into the shell. Mine was tack-welded to the shell. I used a burr to grind off the tack welds and silicon sealer on the mounting cap to secure it to the shell. ☘️😎

Tim - my ‘26 was dripping pretty bad out of the hole under the crank pulley. Turned out to be the cracked soldered joint of the front crankcase damn - a previous owner had JB Welded the seam which still looked good but had itself cracked between the damn and the JB Weld. I used black RTV sealant...

This is an early Western Electric - more Model T than A - that looks like it was updated as technology changed - still has it’s magneto, and dial, and push button…

Charlie - these photos show position of clutch fork arm with pedal back and throwout bearing held against it’s sleeve by bearing return spring.

Front bumper on my ‘26 RPU.

Auto Club of Northern California ceramic license plate topper - found a pair in the trunk of my ‘40 Olds.

This ratchet nut on my spare engine (block dated 3/28) is 1-5/16”. No idea if it’s a replacement or not. The nut on my ‘31 is 1-3/8.