Recent content by primerking

I took it apart and changed the needle bearing between the shaft which had been crunched because the bolt to the uni joint was loose I also found out that the locking plate to the 2.gear had buckled and distorted the bushing so the gear was tight and overheated. Changed that as well. Put it back...

it looks like its in center when i tried shifting and back to neutral and easy off with the lid. i will take it apart and try to make a shim for the 2 gear . Change the needle bearing that was twisted and assemble everything first without the syncro to see if there is any drag. Then assemble...

Thats good, i measured the clearance between 2 gear and it was 0.015’’ , the new bushing stopped the wigling but i need a shim that fits behind the splined one. To get the 0.003-0.004’’ . Do i have to make one or are they for sale?

Picture of the other side

Yes i know that i have the early type syncro but they were delivered by Ford til they run out in 39 with the narrow fork and old syncro. But maybe Will Kimble is on to something when he says that i have the inner and outer part of the syncro flipped around, here is i picture of the other side.

i have the book and there are more info on the Vanpelt tech site. The hub was marked 48 and ordered from Vanpelt, it is the small lip one. Now i just have to wait for some parts and try again after i have read the info in the link above. Thanks

i have the book and there more info on the Vanpelt tech site. The hub was marked 48 and ordered from Vanpelt, it is the small lip one. Now i just have to wait for some parts and try again after i have read the info in the link above. Thanks

Thank you for the link and info about clearance, the changing of the internal bushing helped a lot on the clearance but i will check again when i reassemble. I think its a little more than what you described in mine. I have to check what kind of shims i need. The bolt i was referring to was the...

The last picture are from the old syncro hub that wire out because of the missing bolt. There was not a bolt there when i took it apart so i put it toghether without a bolt so now i have to do it all over again. This time with the bolt in place, learning a little everything day:)

Pictures of the syncro in 2-3

I will post a update when i have put everything back together. Most of the info in books and tech articles is about the more modern real syncro, i have not found so much about the early 39 type regarding shimming etc. i have changed the bearing on the 2 gear so now its good but i think the...

I measured the free movement and placed the hub in center and the lid popped right on and the boltholes aligned, i have done this several times before with 2-3 mm of center but suddenly everything is okay. The reason i began to worry was that the maindrive rotated in neutral and the trans...

Hi I have trouble with neutral alignment on my gearbox . It is a 78series case with the 48-7106 syncro and 81a-7222 double detent tower with 68-7231 low/rev shift fork and a shift fork for 2/high marked only with «32» I have changed the syncro since it the bronze bushin on the main shaft side...