Recent content by poolplayer1

Thanks Guys. That video is very informative on removing and replacing the seal. Thanks for posting the link. I am going to try and do it myself. I figure that if I don't try, I'll never learn. I have some real good guidance here with this group.

Thanks to all for your help. I am going check out you tube to see if someone has a video on replacing the seal. If I don't see one, I am going to check with the local front end shop to see if they can do it. The origional owner was a very good front end guy and did it here in town for over 30...

Thanks for your advice on this matter. Do any of you know if I will need a special tool to remove the seal? If yes, what kind of tool would I need? I am not familiar with the removal of the seal so I would appreciate any and all the help I can get from you guys.

Thanks dmsfrr and Kultulz for helping out. I do see the seal in the drawing above. I'll work on it in the morning and hope its not too much trouble in changing that seal.

Thanks Kultulz for your help. I think I mentioned the wrong area of where the leak is. Its not in the differential area, its in the front right wheel area. If Kultulz or anyone else has a diagram of the front wheel parts, I can see what the part is. Its part of the spindle I think.

I was cleaning the wheels and tires yesterday and I noticed that the tire had some fluid on it. My first thought was a bad wheel cylinder so I removed the drum and what I noticed is that there is plenty of fluid ( or grease) coming out of the axle. The cylinder looks dry, no fluid coming out. My...

In my opinion, that extra trim throws everything off. Its a great looking car with its standard side trim. Of course, to each its own. I know I personally would never do that to my 56.

You probably found one by now but just in case, I bought mine from cgfordparts.com cabout 5 years ago and its still working good. This new one ( remanufactured) replaced the oem that was in there. My 55 ford customline had the 272 motor in it until I replaced it with a 302. If you are...

I am not even close to being an expert like some this guys here but I will give my opinion. Sounds to me like the wheel cylinder on that side is not releasing the pressure enough to let the shoes come back in after releasing the brake. I know you say the cylinders are new but if they are from...

Being that the source (Power) is on the negative side, any fuse would be inline with the negative side . Positive side of course is grounded to body or frame or both.

Yes, I'm glad the problem is solved. When I was there at the wrecking yard removing the sending unit, I than looked at the wiring under the dash and the parts that were still there on the wagon were 12 volt, including the bulbs and flasher. So, its true that the 56 model cars and wagons were...

Found the problem. Well, it was nothing electrical causing the problem. After checking everything possible, I removed the sender from the tank and looked at the bottom of the float, it was dry, no hint of fuel on it. So, that meant to me that the float arm was not long enough to touch the fuel...

Thanks guys for your help. There is continuity on the wire that goes from the gauge to the sender. Before I installed the sender in the tank, I checked the resistance of the sender when in empty and full position and it shows 10 ohms and 75 ohms or close to that. According to the pro's here, the...

Yes, that is what I am saying. I know it sounds weird but that is what is happening. I can't figure this one out. I am usually a pretty good troubleshooter but this time I can't figure it out. Both gauges are good. If something was loading down the power to the sender, I would not have 12 volts...

I bought a fuel gauge and sending unit that were on a 56 ford country sedan wagon. Both were tested there at the wrecking yard before I bought them and both checked good. Yesterday, I installed both and after I did,I get no reading at all from the fuel gauge. I do have 12 volts on the gauge...