Recent content by Pamodelaroadster

My car rides a little stiffer with the Snyder shocks(they are non gas) but my car handles so much better than no shocks at higher speeds, it’s much safer. I tried other shocks that were gas and I was amazed how much worse the ride was, way to stiff for my roadster.

Snyders shocks aren’t gas shocks, that’s one reason I bought mine there. They work well.

Yes, I think it would cause a leak

It sounds like a condenser starting to go bad to me

Snyders shock kit uses regular shocks that are not gas charged, but that kit is more expensive than the other kit mentioned. I bought and installed one of the kits with the gas charged shocks. I actually put them on the front but it was so stiff. I knew I wouldn’t like the ride so I didn’t even...

White lithium grease, it’s not to thick. I think a grease fills the space in the cable housing better and stops the bounce better.

Pull out the cable in the middle and lube the whole length with lubriplate, they had the same problem with newer cars with speedocables

That thing is massive, the accordion one I have is much smaller

I used the rope seal from Snyders for the front. I’m glad I did because the modern seal I do not believe would have worked because the crank was not centered in the hole, it was much closer to the timing cover than the pan.

Went for a test drive, not expecting perfection, but so far no leaks. Also, the new Mitchell transmission is working really well. Along with a synchronized second and third gear it also has a higher ratio first and second gear. A V8 pressure plate is also working well. Thanks everyone!

Thank you everyone for the great advice! Still waiting on parts.I’m so glad I listened and pulled the engine, I couldn’t be doing a good job from underneath with all I found wrong. All the bearing clearances are down to .001”–.0015”. Things that I found wrong that were contributing to the oil...

Engines out and I have some some numbers with plastigage.. With no shims the rear main is .0015”. The middle main with the existing .007” shims on each side has a clearance of about .002”. the front main started with .007” shims on both sides, with two .0035” shims left clearance is about...

OK, you talked me into pulling the engine instead. I do have the red book from Les Andrews. Thanks

There was definitely only one shim on one side. The drain tube was there. It was about a 3 inch piece of 1/8” pipe nipple, how long should it be? when I put the bearing cap on I torqued the nuts to approximately 50 pounds and the crank still rotated. I will definitely be checking the bearings...

Hello, I’m new to model engines. I took the oil pan off to check things out, I was getting a lot of oil leakage out the rear main. Here’s a picture of the rear main,to me it looks like these are bearing inserts not Babbitt bearings and they cut an oil drain groove, several. The rear main had one...