Recent content by oriondal

I have a reproduction light switch rod that seems to be too large in diameter to fit down the tube to the light switch. It goes in about 1/2 inch then stops. Does anyone have any experience in making that fit?

I think that may be the situation.. I see you can buy the correct speedometer drive gear shaft, but I can’t see how to disassemble the speedometer pickup case. It’s not in Les Andrew’s volume one so it must be pretty simple but I haven’t figured it out yet.

I bought a car whose speedometer wasn’t working. I removed the speedometer pickup which appears to be in good shape. I fed both the old cable and a new one well into the housing. The gear spins but doesn’t engage the cable. The cables both are square on the ends, so I’m wondering if the...

Thanks Brent. I’ve never seen insert bearings, so I wasn’t sure. Im guessing replacing the seal would help with the leak.

After dropping the oil pan I removed the rear main bearing cap and this is what I found. There’s a shredded seal behind the cap that can’t be helping. Also, in the second picture the bearing cap there’s a couple of sleeves I didn’t expect. Is this all normal?

I did, eventually

The spring is still on the bottom of the pump

I’ve been going over some things on a 31 roadster I just got. I dropped the oil pan to check for sludge - not too bad, a little on the bottom. It’s been a few years since I removed the pan on an A, but I remember the oil pump coming out with the pan. This one’s bolted on the side of the engine...

Thanks guys. It’s kind of hard to get good pictures, but maybe this will show what’s going on. I finally did get it off with a lot of maneuvering and a some loss of skin. Getting it back on might be a little tricky.

I recently acquired a 1931 A that has a big oil leak from the drain behind the rear main. In dropping the oil pan, I was unable to lower it out as the forward lip is a little forward of the front crossmember. In searching the forum for a solution I came across this from ten years ago: (removal...

I’ve seen high compression heads described as looking original. Is there an easy visual way to tell the various compression ratios and original heads apart on an installed engine?

I found the short and everything's fixed. To my surprise, it was by base of the bulb on the left front headlight. I don't usually drive with the lights on during the day and still don't think I had them on Saturday, but maybe I did. I'll also be putting a fuse in line with the lighting circuit...

My problem is somewhere in the headlights. Everything works OK until I go to dim or bright on the switch. Brakes, cowl lights and horn work fine. Now to figure the rest out. It's got me a little baffled because the lights weren't on when I had the original problem, but it doesn't repeat now...

Yes, thanks newshirt for the diagram. It's saved in the folder

Thanks a ton guys. I wasn't too far from home, so the tow strap came in handy and I can work on it in my garage. I disconnected the wire to the light bundle from the alternator and the ticking stopped. The engine now starts and runs and I have no exterior lights or horn, so I'll work on tracing...