Recent content by mtflat

Welcome to this forum as well Rem, great guys here too! ;)

The track is shorter than the glass. Check the other side for comparison. You want to set the glass so it overhangs the track 1/4" on the front/leading edge. I've used silicone caulk to set the glass, but glass setting tape is better.

Guys, he didn't say "stuck clutch" The clutch actuating rod has a threaded clevis on the end where it attaches to the clutch pedal lever. Pull the cotter pin and remove the connecting pin, turn the clevis ccw 2 or 3 turns (make it longer) and reassemble. Try to get trans in gear with the...

V8Coopman - excellent description of the situation! rotorwrench - also very helpful! I have one of those transmissions in an 86 F150 4x4 that has 360K+ on the clock. I've had it rebuilt twice in the past 32 years but have used and abused it during that time. With 3.50:1 rear gearing it's just...

Prayers! Enjoy a long and healthy retirement!!

rotorwrench, F2s didn't use the D code until serial number 110,000. His is 102K so it should have been Y code. He found the F3 logo on the cab since he posted this so he should be all set. Tim

It's impossible to say for sure. It sounds like you have a late series flathead. They were produced 1948 (truck) thru 1953 (US) and 1954 (CAN) Your heads are '52/'53 and the oil pan is for a truck. The stamping you pictured is missing a character. The typical date code, IF it has one, is...

They're not rivets, they're spot welds that hold the floor pan in place. There are rivets in the corner of the box holding the sides and headwall together. The wood underneath is like soft pine and odd shaped pieces. I've heard Henry was frugal and the wood subfloor proves it. I replaced my...

The rear axle is identical to the one I removed from my 48 F1. The 47/11 = the optional 4.27 gears. The 5 bolt wheels are also half-ton. What makes it unclear is, Ford used a lot of truck parts from the 42-47 half-ton series in the 48-50 F1s. Henry's policy was "don't change things if you...

I had that happen once when I flipped a gasket over by mistake. Starting over with a fresh head gasket solved the weeping around the bolts.

I'm good with pickups drag racing and the coyote is an amazing performer!

Howdy HD - I'm on the other side of the state. Sounds like a great truck with family history - doubly cool. Welcome!

Sounds like you have it sorted out - good luck with it. I replaced a head gasket once and thought I paid enough attention, but I had a slight seep around one head bolt. Turns out the gasket was flipped. Now I check and double check. By the way, the advice above is right on. The air wrench works...

Just make sure you're actually losing coolant that way. My 48 F1 will puke extra coolant out the overflow tube until it is just above the top of the tubes. 5 gal of coolant expands a bit. Once mine settles in at that level it never needs any more added. If I do, it spits out the extra. 10 yrs...

Good advice above. To answer one of your questions, I swapped backing plates from my 48 F1 onto a '63 9" rear end like it was made for it. All bolt holes lined up.