Recent content by MrModelT

That would be most helpful and I greatly appreciate the help! It all depends on how far they want to take it, but i think that is the direction they want to go. I will do so next time i visit the car, now that i know what I'm looking for. The original engine is gone (as far as I know its not...

Ah, okay I get it now. After reading over all the SN decoders i could find, I was under the impression that the *A1 was the prefix, not just *A. In that case, it would be 15066, not 5066. Still early, just not as low as i thought.

After reading into it, I thought that "A1" was present in every number, so the numbers after that would be the production number. So its not #5066?

I will pick up a copy. That is an interesting point. What is the correct usage for the label "AR"? is there a better term for an early production '27-'28 car besides "Early Production" ?

Hi all! I am assisting a family resurrect their late father's '28-'29 Tudor. on closer inspection, it had the remains of the LH early parking brake handle making this car an AR. Further digging revealed the frame number as *A15066* meaning this car is SN# 5,066 and setting a very early...

That is downright GORGEOUS...������

I'm not new to the forum, but I'm in the same boat. I have one myself...but my leads are gone. I need a connection diagram so that I can make new leads for it...and some literature would be nice to learn how to use it..

I know this topic has been covered before and yes....its not a V8, but I some specific questions. I recently saved a '54 Customline that has 223/3-spd combo. It's been sitting since 1978 so I decided to pull the head and go through the motor. It's a 1963 223 (was swapped for the original at...

So I have a question for the Ford wizards here... I am in the midst of restoring my '65 Falcon (170/3-speed) sedan and am upgrading to a '65 date code 200 backed up by a '57 Ford Borg-Warner T86/R10 3-speed OD transmission. The T86/R10 was used by Ford in various applications from the mid-1950s...

...It was time to make it run.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=MUl-qlxOWiE

...new turtle deck floors... ...Tires... ...and other carburetor goodies to round out the deal.. Then I got to assemble the Chicago overdrive unit after months of machine work... Then after plumbing carbs and getting the throttle linkage made up.. ...and the...

*UPDATE* Sorry it has been a while... I know it has been a while, but here is some catch up: Finished engine assembly.. ..and the wire loom made.. before bolting the head down and wiring the engine.. Then we got to bolt the body down for the last time... ...and get the carbs on and...

I believe this frame is early Dodge Bros. (1926 or '27). I have the same frame on my '26 roadster as a temp frame until I get my real '26-'27 installed...

Well said Jack. I plan to run 30W non-detergent oil in my new T motor for the first 500 miles (break-in) then switch over to full synthetic (Amsoil) as recommend by those who built my engine.

...But for a original splash oiling system in a T, you can go any heavier then 30w oil. Thicker oils can't get into the bearings and can cause damage to the Babbitts...and in a real hurry too! When I was younger and not "enlightened" in this area yet, I decided to switch to 5w40w. After my...