Recent content by mrbilman

I'm working on an engine for a relatively heavy 1931 Slant Windshield Town Sedan. This car will be in a lot of stop and go and less than 40 MPH driving. Because of that I feel more low end torque could be better than high end horsepower. The camshaft I have is a Snyder's Touring grind. The...

The rear Radius Arms from a 1931 Town Sedan have a gap at the bottom were the stamped steel meets. Would it make sense to stitch weld the seem? Maybe 4 or 5, 1/2" long welds.

Does the older style ring gear carrier with both halves the same have any inherent issues? Would it be better to locate a newer one with the different halves for a rebuild I have in progress?

My 1931 Slant Windshield Town Sedan had been reupholstered at some point with a LaBaron Bonney kit. The tack strip is attached to the tub with round head screws with the best I can feel a barrel nut on the underside. (Perhaps they were once riveted) The slots under the pan were used to allow the...

Distributor Cap Advance Lever Slot Follow Up Thanks to everyone who chimed in! As a result I understand how this should be set and I have no doubt that the 2 tooth steering column will have to be rotated to get the correct setting. As a follow up- i inspected my car (a 1931) and it was set up...

Is the slot in the distributor cap supposed to act as the stop for the advance lever? On the one I was working on yesterday the stop in the distributor body was off from the slot in the cap when fully retarded. Should this be left as is or is it better to file the slot to better match with the...

Thanks for your input. Had not considered how much it would take yet.

I hate to reopen the tire balance discussion again but i've read all of the old threads and have not found anyone talk about this idea. I have gone thru all the wheels I have (no tire mounted) and sorted them by radial runout and wobble to get the best five. However in doing so, noticed the bare...

Has anyone painted a Model A using TPC Global Restoration Shop Paint? If so what color(s) did you use, what type of paint and what did you think of the color match?

I used TCP Restoration Shop paint on a closed cab pickup. The body Rock Moss Green was single stage acrylic urethane and the black was single stage acrylic enamel. Hardener was used with both. Both types of paint sprayed great and flowed out very nicely. Of the two types I believe I liked the...

Try TCP Global, They show Rublelite Red in their Auto Color Library under 1930 Ford. https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pages/1930-Ford.html#modal-close2

Since the light bar fits you have half the battle won. I had to do a lot of tweaking to get the fender braces to fit and was happy to find that the metal does bend nicely. Trial and error and take it slow. I'm not aware of anyone that makes templates and even if they existed they probably...

Based on the two crankshafts I have laying around the hole is not tapped all the way to the bottom. I was able to thread a ratchet nut all the way in so based on these two cranks you would be good at 1". Feeling into the hole with an awl I can feel the first thread at about 1 1/4" but can't tell...

Thanks to everyone for your feedback and excellent picture. Bert's had a nice inner cap of the correct style and its being shipped to us. Like everyone stated we don't understand how this could have worked as found.

We are working on a late year 1928 that a friend of mine just picked up. While pulling the engine and transmission we discovered that the u Joint inner cover was not there. Today while in search of an inner cover we took another U Joint cover apart that had been in a friends barn for years. It...