That's probably what I'll do. Start again with new shims and go at full torque.
Yeah I almost think I could do it by feel better than with the plastigauge.
80 and 35. I'm doing the process described in Les Andrew's book.
Interesting that you say that. I also have a similar growl and found...
I have my engine out right now and wanted to check clearances while out. Following the book setting clearances to .001-.015 at 50ftlb on the mains and 35ftlb on the rods.
When I torque the crank to the full 80ftlb or any one of the rods, it locks up. So judging by that I need to be looser than...
Not sure what to do with the radiator yet. I measured it against the stock one and it is right on in every dimension, with even larger holes so it should have more adjustment than stock. I'll have to try a bit harder to make it fit correctly when I install it this time. I wasn't really thinking...
Got some time this weekend. After messing with it for a while I think bottom line is adjusting the cowl is not going to get me where I want to be unless I pop the whole body off the frame which I am not willing to do. There is not enough movement available in the cowl alone to affect the hood...
Also cleaned up the front crossmember, from what I'm reading the hump at the radiator mount and the fact that the holes are oval and not round show that it's the correct crossmember. It's riveted in, and shows the appropriate amount of patina. I highly doubt it's been replaced. Forgot to...
Spent some time cleaning and checking things today. Cleaned up the cowl mounts and got the car outside so I could get better pictures. You can really see the damage now.
Interesting idea, my engine number indicates August 1930 build.
Thanks for the tip on the column clamp. I agree about re-adjustment but the cowl is clearly damaged so how can we expect any radiator to fit properly? But on that same note, the original radiator was lining up fine with the...