Recent content by Mike51Merc

As previously said above, there are two types. Remember, closed points charge the coil and open points cause the coil to throw the high voltage to the spark plugs. One way to explain it is the distributor turns 360 degrees and there are 8 times the points have to open, that leaves 45 degrees...

I've fixed this problem with a simple center punch (or two or three) on the threads.

Volts and amps are not interchangeable concepts. Electrical theory can get complicated, but think of amps as storage and volts as push. A 6 volt battery can have lots more amps than an 8 volt battery ---- this usually shows itself in the physical size, as bigger size batteries aren't stronger...

OK, just to clarify, in a non-ballasted system, a 3 ohm coil would be called a 12volt coil and a 1.5 ohm coil would be called a 6volt coil. If the systems are ballasted, a 12 volt coil would have 1.5ohms and the 6 volt coil would have less resistance (I used .5 as an example, but that would...

OK, so I don't want to get into the weeds of electrical theory, but a resistor doesn't limit or reduce current, it limits or reduces voltage. You cannot use 6volt coil for 12volt system or the reverse. Well actually you can and it might work poorly or fry the coil, but that's your choice...

Antifreeze is made to be diluted. Concentrate is not intended to be run 100%. Of course, you could run premix at twice the price. It works best as instructed by the manufacturer. There shouldn't be anything to debate about.

Check for voltage drop at the solenoid. These solenoids are sensitive to voltage drops and will be slow to engage (or not at all) if voltage drops below 6 volts. Compare voltage at the battery with voltage at the solenoid connections. I had a similar problem, the solenoid put a draw on current...

Checking for (and potentially repairing) CRACKS! I had two shops just outright reject my block when they found cracks. One shop wanted to source and sell me a replacement block. The next shop just said it was no good. The third shop said no problem, and it wasn't. Drill and pin, counterbore...

If you live in Celcius country, zero degrees IS the freeze point...

I learned a long time ago to give the crankshaft a complete rotation each time I torque a bearing cap (including rod caps) just to be sure that nothing is binding. Saves having to backtrack to find a problem.

Oh man, I feel for you. This is why I always run on a stand before installation.

I had one blow out right past my left ear and up to the hood of the car, leaving a dent. Also got two of my fingers with aluminum shards. Scared the crap out of me. Heli-coil makes a time-sert style insert that does a good, easy, clean repair.

40cpe is correct. The second wire on the solenoid is the engine-killer wire. It goes to the kickdown switch and then to the distributor side of the ignition coil.

They changed the law in Pa about 7-8 years ago. I did mine, and many months later they sent me a new plate with the same digits as the YOM plate. They never told me what to do with the new one, so I just put it in the trunk in case the police ever ask too many questions.

With all respect to the tech data, I believe cam lobe placement is not necessarily technically precise. What I mean is, the range of adjustability of the distributor is wide enough to compensate for a few degrees difference in lobe placement on the shaft. There are 8 lobes, each 45 degrees...