Recent content by Mike Crehan

Hi, what a fantastic thread and resource. I am pretty ignorant about flat head V8s and have been trying to work out what I have in my recently acquired car. It differs in detail from some of the information here, but I think it is Canadian made Mercury with full flow oil filter drillings. It...

Not knocking anyone else but I have ordered from Mikes from the UK and from NZ and always had great service.

Fifty Shades of A I look forward to the serious answers as I have similar gaps to fill in my bookshelves.

I'm sorry that is just wrong. The correct fit is where the crank is of diameter x and the hole in the big end is of diameter x plus however many thou clearance you need. If you try to adjust the clearance with shims you can no longer have a round hole in you rod but an oval one where the correct...

Trying again There you go Updraught I finally did it.

I've tried to upload a photo but it all just seizes up once I've uploaded and hit the close this window button.

If you have access to a friendly machine shop then you may be able to make one which is what we have to do with a number of the less prolific makes of car. Ideally you want a piece of EN24T bar so that you can have the structure running lengthways down the finished arm. I get the thing wire cut...

Ok. Thank you.

Can you explain why you would want to use a shorter arm? I've used longer arms in the past to make the steering quicker, I'm not sure with vintage boxes why you would want to make it slower?

Push them down not up. There is almost certainly a wear ridge at the level of the top ring at TDC and if you force them past this you will probably break a ring and do lots more damage as well.

Slight thread drift but it may help - I was taught to never double nut any stud unless I was removing it to throw away. Locking the double nuts together stretches the threads on the stud. The answer is a stud box. Basically a short bit of hex bar drilled and tapped to match the stud (think of it...

These do taper inside and there is enough material to reshape the tops to a full flare like Quickchanges but when we were messing about on a synonym with some sided raft carbs we found they worked better with the fully radiussed 180 degree ends.

There are a lot of formulas including some online calculators. Eventually you have to make some assumptions to get the answer which then means the answer might be wrong. With other types of carbs and engines the calculations have got me close and fine tuning on the rolling road has got me home...

Looks like the engine with the blue carbs is very similar to mine externally - same headers, similar looking head, I've got a Malory distributor. This is my first go at them. It will be easy enough to change the length when it's all up and running.

They are 130mm above the top of the carb. That's about all I can get under the bonnet.