Recent content by Mickd

Yeah.. it certainly is !

Mate, your wire from the gauge to the tank is earthed somewhere. Disconnect it from the sender unit at the tank end. If it's still pegged past full, your wire to the sender is earthed somewhere. If it goes back to empty, the sender is crook. But you say you've bench tested it (I assume you used...

Well, I've got to agree with you there. I bought one from Carpenters some time back and it was way off. That's when I turfed it and bought one off evilbay. I must admit, I never did measure the resistance of the Carpenter unit and now I have no idea where it ended up. But as I've mentioned...

Sorry... when I say you can find one on the "rear", I meant to say the rear of the dash gauges cluster.

Ok Ron. Here's the go. That Dennis Carpenter sender will work with with the original gauge. But you will need to install a 12v to 6v reducer for the gauge. In fact the reducer will need to supply volts to fuel, oil and temperature gauges. 12 will eventually cook the gauges. You can purchase...

Typo above sorry... "wore" was supposed to be "wire" (Fat fingers syndrome ��).

Sounds like your tank sender wore is touching tp earth intermittently. Lift the wire off the sender and tape up the connector so's it doesn't touch earth anywhere. Then take it for a drive. If the gauge remains s on empty your tank sender is crook. If the problem still exists it means the wire...

Yes Jay. That's what I found too. In fact, I adjusted (read that as bent) my float arm so's it read empty well before it was at the bottom. Better to have a gauge tell you you're empty when you've still got some in there than the other way around !

It's no Picasso, but you get the idea I hope. Mick

Can you get your hands on a multimeter to read the ohms 4(resistance) value of the sender unit. Connect one probe on to the body of the sensor and one on the terminal post, then read the resistance with the float fully down. It should read around 73 ohms (gove or take a few ohms). Then lift the...

Well, Glad we sorted it out. The only reason I knew that was that I couldn't get mine right, so I made it a point to sort it out because I wasn't gonna let it defeat me ��. I've got a couple of old gauges, senders and early Ford workshop manuals here too. That helped. Don't know...

And bloody SPELLCHECK got me in the first comments above. The word "aging" should have read "AGAIN". (Fat fingers syndrome!)

Whoops! Got my two pictures back to front. First one is the later unit (up mid to late 70's). The second one is the earlier set up

Wow ! This discussion is going on forever. Here's two pictures for you. The first one is the earlier gauges up to 55. The sender unit uses a bimetal strip which slowly bends, depending on the level of the float. The higher the float, the longer it takes to bend the strip enough to open the...

Jay &19Fordu are right. However guys, If you use a 73 -10ohm sender you CAN get a reasonably accurate reading. You might have to adjust the float position a little though. After mucking about with my original bimetal KS sender unit I finally bit the bullet and bought a 73-10 ohm unit just to...