Recent content by Marv

I use 1/4 " p1pe and heat it with torch and it will melt through and leave a smooth neat hole.

If you have to take the back seat out to unlock it , maybe you can get that neighbor and stuff his butt in the trunk to open it. LOL

That is the way I done mine and it worked for years. Maybe still working. I do not remember amp of the reducer. :)

The only flathead Ford that I ever owned that did not overheat or cracked block was a 47 coupe with the flathead 6. It was not great for gas mileage but it would out run most stock V8s.

I recommend the Sun machine as was pictured on the far right. I bought mine new in 1973 and still have it and it still works well. It does not have a battery compartment. You just hook the cables up. Marv

Super real is right about that.

I was told that the radio did not know if it was positive or negative ground. I just put a voltage reducer in line and hooked it up and done the same thing with the gasoline heater, Voltage reducer is about $10.:)

Steel is the only way to go. I bought fiberglass and ended up giving them to a friend that did not care about the cracking and repaired them. Then I bought steel and am very happy with them. :mad:

I would start by making a convertible out of it. I would love to have it to repair for fun.

There will be a noticeable difference alright if you try any fast driving in curves. The *** will try to get in front of you. Been there and done that. Be careful. :p

At the very least, the points.. Maybe all 3. Look for a liquid coming out of the condenser and coil. If no liquids you may have lucked out.:(

It worked didn't it? LOL

I have found that the 6 is more dependable. No overheating, no cracked blocks, run just as fast and just as much power when both are built stock.

Try Lebaron Bonney./

No trick that I know of. I would spray some P B Blaster into the key slot and into the pin hole and work the key in and out and turn right and left and try the procedure again.:).