Is the rear trans stabilizer available to purchase without the motor mount?
I have an early 1928 with the original front solid-mount and the float a motor. Will the rear trans stabilizer make any difference to the problems described above?
I had the death wobble after going over a railroad track. All my lug nuts were tight, but I had noticed that someone had machined off the taper has shown in the picture below. Why in the world would someone do that!
Thanks for the replies. It looks like mine is the same length as everyone else’s. Maybe I’m not folding the top down as tight as it should be. Thanks again.
My boot strap seems to be too short. It is 19 1/2 inches long. What length should it be?
If it is too short, where can I buy a new pair? (I have the hooks.)
When my horn acted like that, I discovered that the nut holding the steering wheel onto the steering shaft, was backing out, causing it to press against the light switch, thus making contact with the horn button.
I put this on mine. It’s not red, but I think it looks much better than the repo steering wheel color. The finish has lasted for about four years. If you do not put a finish on the wheel and your hands get wet, the red will come off on your hands.
Thanks for all the compliments, but I do not think it’s brilliance on my part, but I do know that it’s much cheaper than doing it the Model A vendors way.
The step-up converter at Amazon is only $12.99 and the brake light at Amazon is only $19.52. If you are going to install a right hand body...
I added a Jeep spare tire brake light to my 1928 roadster for added safety at night. Mounted it on the backside of the spare tire mounting bracket. Tapped a 5/16 -18 1/2 inch deep hole in the head of the mounting stud as shown in the pictures.
Allso needed to attached a 6 V to 12 V converter to...