Recent content by kiphartzell

Thanks, I'll give this a try. I really like the bar soap idea!

Thanks for the suggestions, I did notice that the male dovetails were a little long and were touching the A-Pillar so I ground them down enough so they are definitely not touching. Also, the hinge pins have been replace (absolutely no play or sagging) and the doors close very easily with the...

Both doors on my 3W are hard to open and close. They are properly aligned and have new female dovetails and male billet dovetails. The catch is new, but the latch is original. The latch seems to be stiff and sticky (the doors close much easier when the latch is retracted with the handles)...

I had a little time this afternoon to work on this. I ended up adding one metal 1/8" shim at the B-pillar bolts (both sides) and this is all it took to move the door front edge up by about 1/4". Though I haven't done the math on this, it makes sense that a little movement along the hinge axis...

Thanks for the clarification. Do you know if your coupe is a early model or late model? It seems like there might be some mid production changes with whether Henry used rubber pads.

John, Thanks. Thickness Dimension of the last one would be helpful so I can duplicate what Henry did. Though just knowing this helps with trying some stuff. So from you description the webbing (which I think is 1/8") ends before the 2nd to last bolt which has a rubber 1/8" pad to match the...

Thanks John... What about the other body bolt positions? Also, looking for the thickness of any other shims. I am most interested in the back four bolts since I have some door gap alignment that I am trying to fix.

So after a discussion with another helpful 3W owner, some questions arose whether 1932 Fords (and in particular 3Ws) used any rubber frame pads and not just webbing the whole length of the frame? As described to me; "Henry used 1/4" thick (approx 2" by 2") heavy rubber shims. One goes between...

No Problem Johnny. BTW, other then the frame webbing, the cowl sits directly on the frame rail so it would be difficult to lower it any more. Since the door is 42" long, the B-pillar doesn't have to change much to move a 1/4" at the leading edge. Anyway, this is shaping up to a good project...

Johnny, I didn't quite follow what you are saying about the cowl. The 1932 3W has suicide doors so it would be the B-billar that would need adjusting. I am thinking a shim under the B pillar to start. Also, I currently have a shim under the rear most body mount points to better align the...

Karl, Thanks for the offer to explain it better. Since the hinges are cast and riveted to the door along with the B-pillar gap looking pretty good, I am going to try shimming the body and see what happens before giving you a call. The hood to radiator could also be improved which leads me to...

BTW, similarly I have seen where some people add an internal steel support structure in the door itself (can only be done if a door is being re-skinned) to help with this general issue.

Hi Krylon, Would you have any pictures of this? This would be something I would consider to help fix this issue. The doors are so long and heavy that the extra support at the top of the B-pillar makes sense. You said rod. Is this threaded rod? How did you attached to b-pillar and lower...

Interesting... never heard of offset dovetails. Though these would not be the answer since the door itself is low at the front and needs to be lifted so it properly aligns when shut. The current dovetails lift the door into place (albeit, not what I desire since it has to put stress on the...

I originally purchased some Mac's oversized pins, but also thought .340 was excessive, yet .280 wasn't going to fix my problems. I found the 3.12 at Custom Classics & Rods (http://www.ccrod.com/pdfs/page7.pdf). Listed as 49-51 Ford pins. They worked great and even have oiling channels. They...