Recent content by kbrandt

So, I've had some progress. I decided to check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner . It was leaking big time at the manifold to block joints. I had used brass nuts to hold on the manifold. One of them had stripped and none of them were all that tight. I replaced them with steel ones and...

It has straps, not wires. I knocked the strap off the distributor post with a long screwdriver. It's still doing the same thing.

So now, I'm confused. I checked the valve adjustements and they ranged from 0.013"-0.015". See the attachment for specific cylinders. I did a compression check and got 1 : 50, 2 : 50, 3 : 50, 4 : 48. Those are maybe a little lower than I expected but it could be my 30 year old guage. They're...

The distributor cap, coil wire, coil, points and condenser are all new. I've ordered a new distributor body, as that's the only old electrical part remaining. Besides, it never hurts to have spares.

When I pulled the plugs for that picture, I purposely put them back in other cylinders. Then I pulled #1 wire while running and got zero change. The problem didn't follow the spark plug, so I'm assuming it's good.

It looks like I have a dead cylinder. Removing the #1 wire didn't change idle at all, where the other three had pronounced changes. There is a spark, but no combustion. Additionally, I checked the plugs and the #1 doesn't look like it's been burning any fuel. See attached picture. #1 is the...

It does have adjustable lifters. Maybe I'll try that before resorting to pulling either the engine or transmission.

It shakes at all RPMs. It gets more intense as RPMs increase. The clutch chatters a little but it's not bad. I didn't adjust the clutch fingers until after the engine was installed in the car so I don't think I did that precise a job.

That's a good idea to measure the flywheel runout through the starter opening. I'll need to get a better dial indicator to do that. I didn't make any valve or bearing adjustments on the new engine.

I'm relatively new to Model A's. I bought my '30 Tudor about five years ago. I drove it around for about six months before it lost a timing gear. In the course of repairing that, one of the local experts found cracks in the block in bad places so I gave up on that engine. I replaced it with an...

I always assumed it was a clever piece of marketing. They got to include "Ford" in one name and Tudor sounds more elegant than plain old two-door.

Snyder's also has .8125" king pin reamers. They're not cheap, but worked on my car.