Recent content by Johnny Nitro

Absolutely! Thanks for sharing.

I used original bolts, except two holes required Allen bolts due to clearance issues. An original one I saw installed on a running car didn’t have any issues and used the original bolts in all holes.

I used a Facet low pressure fuel pump between the tank and my mechanical pump and the mechanical pump will work without the electric pump on and visa versa

I have a coupe, if that makes a difference. I’ll take a whole set of you have it. I can pick up, but I would prefer somewhere within 250mi of Chicago. Thanks!

I hope in 50 years I can post the same thing! Congrats!

If it’s entirely speed related, and not merely rpm, or load, maybe it’s drivetrain. Is there a way to back off the adjustment on individual brake drums, one at a time, to see if any are grabbing?

Thanks for looking! I would also buy a dual pulley crank if that’s what you have.

Thanks for looking! I would also buy a dual pulley crank if that’s what you have.

Ah, Mart! So, that’s you. I never put two-and-two together. Love your vids. Keep ‘me coming.

Dang! I wish I would have known.

Funny, I just got done slapping one together for my first flattie. I’m terrible at welding, but it works!

This

I’ve always heard the raised rib on the stock drums won’t allow a later style wheel to seat properly eventually distorting the wheel. You can buy an adapter to put early style wheels on later drums, but nothing available now to do the opposite.

Thanks for your input! I’m only using the end of the drag link that has any effect at all on length. I’m using a F1 steering box, and centered it according to instructions, and it ended up cocking my 1940 ford steering wheel. It didn’t have another woodruff keyway to make adjustments, so I cut...

I’m trying to center my steering wheel by tightening the drag link end. It’s working, but I did have to tighten it quite a bit. Outside of accelerated wear, and possibly stiffer steering is there a bigger problem with “too tight” drag link ends?