Recent content by John

Re: Modified A will not Calihute Check with FSI for the proper advance curve for your head, carburetor and header setup. The distributor advance may not be curved correctly for your setup.

The original Ford A6050B high compression heads had a large raised B on the top of the head indicating that it was a high compression head. I do not know about the B97 marking. John

I have a 1/2 inch drive socket that I shortened in a lathe. It works provided the crankshaft nut still lines up with the hole in the radiator and frame guide.

You will need access to a 30 ton press to swage the studs in the drums. If that is not available, then your decision is made for you.

I am still looking for operating information for my AMMCO 9000 Little Giant brake lathe. Any help is greatly appreciated as AMMCO has nothing available. Anyone have one and would like to share information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, John

The parts for the two tooth steering are available now. Search for ModelAsteering.com which is a person in Florida. I just rebuilt a box with his stuff and it is what used to be available thru the vendors. It is good quality and it fits!

The two tooth box is easily adjusted on the bench. Adjusting it in the car is much more difficult. New box internal parts are finally available. JLC

As stated above, send it to Dick Crabtree or call him for one already repaired. He posts restored units occasionally on Fleabay. He has done several for me and several for my friends. He is always reasonably fast, very polite, professional and very reasonable. John

Bill G. above is correct. Always check the mating surfaces of the water outlet and mating head surface for flatness and use a bit of RTV sealant or a home made very thin paper gasket. The vendor supplied gaskets are much too thick and compress when the neck bolts are tightened. JLC

I have found that the fiber washer is too thick in most distributors I have rebuilt. I always chuck the collar up in my lathe and trim it for the proper clearance. 2speed, your suggestion will work fine.

As URSUS stated above, use a 13mm tap and an old distributor shaft to drive the bushings out. The 13mm tap will thread into a worn bushing but is not large enough to cut into the distributor housing. Putting a slight taper on the leading end of the bushing with a file or grinder will make it...

Dick Crabtree (mbcrabtree@aol.com) does an excellent job at very reasonable rates.

The large 3 hole bushing at the top of the steering column where the spark and throttle rods pass thru is of "pot metal composition" and is prone to deteriorate and swell causing the levers to bind. Most likely you will need to replace the bushing. You can try as nkaminar suggests and apply...

I too agree that using bushings as Henry did is best. I have found that the repro sectors are not hardened as deep as Henry's and this allows roller bearing damage to the sector.

I just had two popouts restored by Dick so I know he still does them. His work is excellent and he is a gentleman to do business with.