Recent content by john worden

Truck load left over from rebuilds. All stock parts. No blocks. 1940-53. Cranks, heads, intakes, carbs, starters, generator, rods. Small parts too numerous to mention. Some new rubber moldings. 2 rough 40 tudor trunk lids. $100.00 for all. Located in central Iowa.

All used stock parts left over from restoration of 1940 sedan with late V8 motor. No blocks. heads, cranks, cams, intakes, carb, starters, generators, rods, pistons, misc. small parts too numerous to mention. Also misc. other parts. Truck load. $100.00 for EVERTHING. I've retired. it all has to...

I tried to sell a truck load of V8 engine parts for $100.00 Located in central Iowa. Anyone?

Need all ext. chrome and stainless for a 51 Business coupe. Don't need bumpers unless they are very good. Thanks.

1940 and late V-8 parts. No blocks or Merc. cranks. Heads, intakes, carbs, starters, generators, early and late cranks, front covers, Misc. small parts to numerous to list. Pick up load. Some non engine parts also. All leftover from a new build. It all has to go. $100.00 for all. Located 65...

Yup, hood to cowl.

Thank you all. Your input is very useful. John

Pickup load of stock engine parts (no blocks) left form late build. Too numerous to mention. A few misc. parts included. In central Iowa all inside. Everything $100.

After attempting to fit the hood to an otherwise sound, older restoration on which the hood was never properly fitted, it appears that the frame has sagged. What are the chances? The gap at hood/cowl widens from pinstripe going down to cowl bottom. It fits well across the cowl top and radiator...

Agreed with Terry, trying to start a bottoming tap in a freshly drilled hole is tough to do. might also check that the drill is the correct size for your Helicoil, even if it came as a "kit" things happen in packaging Will check again. I know it isn't a bottoming tap. Thanks. John

This was my experience: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...rt#post1997462 Thank you. John

This was my experience: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...rt#post1997462 Thank you. This looks promising. John

I agree. I use a tap guide similar to this one to ensure the tap is pertpendicular to the top of the block (or whatever you are tapping https://www.amazon.com/GATOR-TOOLS-V...3351856&sr=8-5?tag=atomicindus08-20 Thank you. John

Typically machining cast iron is done dry, no lube We will try that. Thanks.

PS. It is important that the drill and tap are kept perpendicular tot he top of the block or the stud will not line up with its hole in the head. We did make and use a guide for that purpose. Thanks.