Recent content by John S

Even if you installed the wrong shaft, the release bearing should contact the pressure plate fingers squarely all at the same time. I'm really starting to think the pressure plate is at fault causing the little or no release issue.

Just remove the inspection cover on the bell housing and see how much the release bearing and fork move when the pedal is pushed to the floor. This should tell you whether the pressure plate and disc or clutch linkage is what is causing the no release issue.

If you use the original style bearings with no seal be sure to install the baffle facing the correct way. If they are installed backward the transmission will leak more oil than the Exxon Valdez.

We just got back from a 1000+ mile tour in Utah and Arizona and the only problem we had was a failed generator cut out. I keep a spare in my bag of tricks so this was no big deal to fix in the Bryce Canyon Lodge parking lot. On a tour about 12 years ago I had a distributor fail in a weird sort...

Good thing you tore it down, that loose seat would have been a killer. I've seen them come out and it ain't pretty. From my somewhat limited knowledge your head is a stock style replacement sold by an aftermarket jobber back in the day. A Stipe cam with a Snyder's or Brumfield head (if you can...

A "leather" covered roof instead of steel, otherwise it's the same as a '28-9 standard coupe.

The question is, how many "good" cars were put away 30 or 40 years ago for lack of parts or money to keep them on the road?

Private ownership of computers in Cuba is zero without permit. I was reading about that this morning. A lot of things could change for the Cubans, but it's going to take time. V8 COOPMAN beat me to it. lol

I used a shop vac to clean crap like that out of the lifter valley in my '68 Mustang. The engine is original and the intake had never been off.

There used to be a shop in Dallas, Chief Radiator, and they did their gas tank patching with a large forge-heated copper iron and sheet copper. It took longer to clean and bead blast the area to be soldered and get the iron hot than to do the actual soldering.

90 days parts and 1500 miles labor if I'm reading it right. That's not very long.

Here is a pretty good explanation of both a compression check and a leakdown test and what each one does: Every decent maintenance schedule will have you doing a compression check every 15,000 or 30,000 miles. One way to tell engine wear & health. But the old compression tester may be on the way...

Maybe the AA express term came from the Railway Express Agency using that body style.

One thing that happened to me once was that the upper bushing in the distributor got dry and the friction made a lot of heat. The points closed up twice in less than 100 miles. I guess the rubbing block on the points couldn't take the high heat and just wore away. Might be a good idea to make...

I moved the seatback on my special coupe as per the service bulletins and it helped a good deal, but leg room is still tight for me. As for the deal with the seat bottom and the door opening, I know of no solution short of cutting down the size of the springs and seat riser.