Recent content by jfcrash

TagMan Check out an old post “Headlight Lens Retaining Clips” Jim

As far as removal, gently squeeze the two metal arms on each side of the switch body together and you should be able to fenniest it thru the dash panel. As far as heating, assuming its not an electrical wiring/cable issue, I had a situation where the two vertical electrical posts had to be...

Follow up... Battery passed the carbon pile test...so starting with the battery terminals and undoing/cleaning/checking all connections as pictured in the sketch in post 17 above... The problem was located at the starter side terminal of the foot operated starter switch.. the locking hardware...

I will pull the optima battery and have it carbon pile tested as suggested and install my backup nos foot operated starter switch this coming week(s) ... If it makes sense at this time, I can also pull the generator with its generator mounted cutout and have it bench tested under load ...

Kevin , your answer to post 25, I was driving and stopping and each time I was changing the position of the 3rd brush and taking notes of the current output at various positions of the 3rd brush for anticipated night time driving, my last mark was at 14+ amps at 30mph. I drove home from there...

Kevin, + I do have a Ford foot operated starter switch; the fuse size is 20 amp. , and now understand the 30 second rule and I will trace the wiring as recommend.. Thanks,Jim (but I can't help to wonder now if this whole issue of mine which took place during my two day experimenting with...

JS..... I guess I did not report it in my post that I did in fact made sure the connections to the battery posts, battery shut off switch and connections to the starter switch were tight ... I did not however undo their nuts to look for overheating.. not sure I would recognize overheating...

The part that confuses me in my previous post is why with the fuse removed and the ignition switch on.. why is there a current draw ? Jim

Spent some time today making some baseline observations and have yet to examine the wiring diagram to see if the observations make sense With the fuse removed and the ignition switch in the OFF position- the horn worked but the head lights, brake lights, and starter did not activate and...

Yes, 100% of all wiring and a complete wiring harness and light switch at base of steering column was replaced. I have yet to start a visual examine of the wiring.. Have thought of turning on the ignition without starting the engine and start rotating the light switch from low to high beams...

Thanks to each of you... I plan on visually inspecting the wiring from one end to other hoping something shows up... those two days were extremely hot and muggy... don't know if temperature or over heating of some component played a hand in the problem... thnx,Jim

1935 Electrical System temporary shorting – Back ground- Car is a three year old restoration with a new wiring harness including resistor, fuse block, ignition switch, rebuilt 3 brush generator and distributor, 6 Volt Pos ground (with a shut-off switch wired in). The generators third brush...

DD... looks like you nailed it, thank you an everyone pitching in... I have had the firewall 15 plus years never knowing what year it was for, now to find a good home for it.. Thanks again Jim

Thanks to each of you for your inputs.. his helps me a lot... Jim

Can any one identify the attached firewall... Is it for a car or truck and what year ???.... Silly me bought it for my 35 Phaeton project.......Any thoughts will be appreciated. Jim