Recent content by Jeff M

I actually tried that but it’s still too tight of a fit.

Everything went smooth until the four inside rivets on top of the lower frame rail. You can’t drill these so I figured I could grind the heads off and knock them out. Wouldn’t budge even with an air hammer. Is drilling these from the bottom the best option?

Interesting, my frame has no engine or trans in so hopefully it’ll be good.

Thank you

Finally took my body off so it’s time to drill. A poster above said the shank is 3/16” so do I need to use a 5/32” bit? The rivet head is 7/16”.

I need to remove the body on my '30 coupe. My car was converted to a rumble seat, I can’t see the bolts for the rear bumper supports that mount to the body. Do I just unbolt the bottom bolt that squeezes the mount to the frame bracket instead?

I meant welding some steel across the frame to make sure the frame doesn’t move while removing the center crossmember.

So no bracing is necessary for the center crossmember? I guess that’s only required for removing the front or rear crossmember since it obviously would free the frame rails.

Thanks for the tips!

I need to remove and replace my center crossmember on my 30 coupe frame. Should I just weld some square stock across frame close to the crossmember to brace it? Any tips on removing the rivets? Thanks.

Having a tough time removing the bolt, the output shaft still turns in low or reverse.

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I finally removed all the bolts, I didn’t see where to remove the one with the yellow arrow. Is this necessary to remove the fenders? Also do I need to remove the rear fenders to jack up the front of the body or is it not required? Still not to sure where it was suggested to lift the front of...

Thanks for the replies! Where is the best place to jack up the front of the body?

I already have the headlight bar off, I forgot to mention that.