Recent content by Hiker

I've sold my Model A and now would like to sell the books. I have all three of the Les Andrews books, the Rex Reheis A and B carb restoration book, a xerox of rear axle restoration, McCree book on The Model A Engine and a few others. See attachment (if it works). 740 838 9708 or Ford Barn...

Ford 1930 Model A Tudor. This one is a driver. Older restoration but shows nice. Henry body, nice paint and chrome, good upholstery but shows some wear. Total engine rebuild by Ron Kelly with C/B crank, Stipe cam, pistons, valves and seats, bearings, high compression head, clutch. Rebuilt...

Sold

Thanks to all that replied. I found one.

I need a flywheel housing for my engine that is being rebuilt as I type. I have three cracked ones and would like to find a good one, but I understand (by experience) that this is hard to do. Any help appreciated. Email me jim.may66@yahoo.com Thanks

Ah, much better. Now I get it. Thanks guys. Any suggestions for a replacement rebuilt pressure plate?

Mitch; What do you mean by "slanted spring retainers"? I looked at the picture and can't see it. Thanks. A question while on the subject; I'm refreshing my spare engine and the pressure plate has what appears to be stress cracks in several areas; who makes the best replacement pressure plate...

Fabulous. I can't thank you guys enough.

I dropped the rear end and took the U-Joint cover off and yep, it was the Snyder repo U Joint rubbing. The cover had gouges in it from the little action it got rolling back and forth in the shop. Terrific. If I knew how to post a picture, I would. How do you tell if an original U Joint is...

Thanks for all the responses; I'm having a bit of trouble posting a reply (new to site). I did take great care installing the U Joint washer with nub and did confirm that the tower forks are in correctly. I plan on taking the clamshell apart and giving the car the "push" test to see if it...

Newbie to the Ford Barn and looking for some help. I just had my engine rebuilt from a reputable builder and replaced the riveted u-joint with a Snyder repo before installation. I put on the u-joint inner cover, inserted the spline onto the driveshaft and tightened down the clamshell halves...

Most likely, the casting had not stabilized before it was finish milled for sale. Did you ever buy a set of rotors, only to find they "warped" a few months later? Same thing.

Jim; What is your impression (review) of Schwalms?

Hello, I'm a first-timer to the Ford Barn. I have a question and this seems to be the thread to put it in; Les Andrews said in Vol II that the Snyder 5.5 head can be milled down ".080 to .125 by a local machine shop". Has any one gone further than .060"?