I have the vent like the one in #1 and it is attached to a heater like in #6, it is mounted between the seat and the gear shift. The vent inlet on mine is round to accept a flex pipe or ridged exhaust pipe. It heats the car well until the temperature gets below 0 F.
Back in the early 60s I modified 59ab block with distribution tubes, removed every other vain from the water pumps and installed 180* thermostats; This was a bored and stroked engine of 297 cubic inches. I was able to drive this 48 Ford around Portland Or without a fan and it never over heated
The Model A crank shaft was balanced to <1 gms, todays modern crank shafts are balanced to <4 gms . How are counter balances going to help? I would not do it.
After you drive the car between 25 and 50 miles retorque the axle nuts, notice how much torque you have lost. You may want to retorque again after a couple thousand more miles.
When I got my 29 coupe it had rear FAMs, I have driven the car this way for five years. The tabs on the pans that go between the engine and frame have broken off and I have had to repair cracks in the radiator inlet nozzle, I believe this caused by movement between the frame and the engine...
You can measure the preload with an inch torque wrench either beam or dial type. Use a 1 1/16 inch six point socket on the spline end of the drive shaft for the measurement. The amount of force on the jam nut is dependent an the amount of interference fit between the pinon sleeve and the inner...
The manifold in a Scolded Dog, this looks like my set up and from the choke leakage I'd say the carb is a 94 8ba made from 1949 to about 1953. I use a fuel pump.
I cut the race with a peanut grinder and a narrow cut off wheel, then drove it out from inside with a drift. My race was stopped on the inside of the banjo housing, there was no way I could of driven to the inside.