Recent content by galaxyjb

Just an update. Thanks for all the help, the guide came out with the steel hammer to the valve Tom and the new valve and guide are now in. I'm going to lap it in like crazy this evening and adjust all the valves, the seat looks in ok enough condition and I'm hoping by removing the play in the...

Well I decided to go the remove the valve and guide approach and lap in a new one. The seat looks ok, no cracks. I have the "good" guide removal tool problem now is the guide won't come out, it's a two piece. I sprayed liquid wrench down on the guide and even giving a few firm hits with a rubber...

I'm sorry, I edited my original post, I meant to state the issue was with cylinder #2, not 3, but all the rest of the info remains the same, and I have corrected the 1st post. Here is the photo I promised of the valve seat on cylinder #2 in question...

I will start off by saying I'm a newbie to A's and engine work in general. With that said I did a compression check on the A this spring, cylinder 1,3,4 had 90 psi, 2 had 60psi (adding oil brought it up to 64 psi). The I did a vacuume test and at idle the gauge would show about 20 but would...

Hi, I bought a dual gauge (temp/oil pressure) from snyders (link below). The gauge needs a switched power source in either 6or12 volts. What would be the best way/place to give it a power source? http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/5269 Thank you for all the help

As far as I can see the armour was the only wire melted. Domino, I actually do have a fuse, the usual one mounted on the starter sold by all the parts houses, I know I have the correct amperage fuse in it which made me courious why it didn't pop, it has before. Oh well, a different mystery for...

Specifically the armored cable from the ignition switch to the distributor. It is now black for about 4 inches with melted wire oozing out that looks yellow. My dash light just has a regular wire. If my theory on what happened sounds about right that's great, I'll get the replacement parts and...

I had my instrument panel unscrewed from the dash and had the terminal box open to fix the passenger side stud that had some wiggle in it and to try to figure out why my dash light isn't working (still don't know). So I reconnected power while everything was apart to use the multimeter to test...

To give an update. I've tried adjusting the third brush on the generator and replacing the cutout with a diode cutout and still no change in amps even with volts increasing. So I purchased an alternator and with the alternator all is well with strong amps etc. all seems to be fixed. At somepoint...

Tom, thanks for the suggestion on the routing, I will clean that up.

I will flip the wires on the ammeter then, even if it's not "the way it should be". Thank you, and we will see what happens. For the questions on the "mystery wires" The blue wire on the charge side of the ammeter is for the wiper motor. So the charge side has wiper, yellow/black, and dash...

So a little update. My ammeter will still not show that the system is charging, just flutter around zero with engine at any rpm and lights/accessories off. My new ammeter came and I took out the old new ammeter and the new one now will show about 10amp charge with the ignition off and lights...

To update for others who may have this issue down the road. One turn on the drivers front brake adjuster and the squeak is gone. Thanks to all for the help.

Sorry, I thought I posted the parts I replaced, perhaps it didn't show in the post. They are: -wiring kits that run from generator cutout to starter/safety fuse to terminal box -All dash wiring from the terminal box to ammeter/coil/ignition switch -Ammeter -generator cutout The ammeter has...

When cruising I often hear the brakes in the front, perhaps the drivers side more than the passenger side make a light squeak, squeak, squeak (fast squeak, in time with the wheel rotation). Just pushing very lightly on the brake pedal makes the noise go away…or making a right turn. If I brake...