Recent content by fordwife

There's a thin line between 'want' and 'need''

Here is how I mount 30x3 1/2 tires : take an old 21" model a wheel, weld an inner rim to the top of it and bolt it through the center with a piece of all thread to a sawhorse. bolt the clincher rim to it and it is just the right height to mount the tire and tube in the regular way. Sure saves...

With less point gap, the points open later which retards the spark.

I have repaired these by taking a triangular file such as a saw file and filing the teeth a little deeper. you can also refile the pawl. Or, some guys cut a piece of wood and fit it in the slot where the lever goes forward.

Thanks Rotorwrench, that's what I was wanting to know.

I have 2 V8 engines, I believe 1942-48. On one the heads say 59A and the other say 59AB. What's the difference?

Once I found a gouge in a cylinder wall about an inch long. I cleaned it, filled it with JB weld and honed it smooth. 3K miles later.its still running smooth with no problems.

I agree with Chris. That's a pretty decent looking A. Keep in mind that virtually every model a part ,except engine and running gear is available nowdays.

Given that info. I would have the battery load tested.

Here in the northwest they were known as ''puddle jumpers''.

I know where there is a '29 sport coupe with oval side windows.

I make my own out of 1/8 steel welding or brazing rod. It's fairly cheep and available.

As I recall, back in the day it was about 1/2 the thickness of the lining.

Heres a question for some of you gurus to ponder: all of the 6v fords, from abou 32 and up use an ignition resistor in the primary side of the ignition so the points won't burn. Why doesn't Model A and most other 6v cars of that era use one?

where are you located? Maybe someone near you can help.