Recent content by deuce_roadster

Maybe it was just to make it easier to pour oil into the engine. It does bend to the side. That small cap at the bottom just closes off the place where there is a smaller tube in a stock unit. Nothing really accomplished by closing it off. I bet the large tube isn't completely closed off.

Mike, you can always take one of your NOS lines to a place that makes up tubing (fuel, air, oil etc) lines and have them put new ethanol proof rubber on your ends.

I had one many years ago and it had a passenger car rear bumper.

I have NOS 11-a sleeves that seem to be the "thick" ones. Have no way to measure them.

My 40 SD had a like waterproof cardboard "headliner", not a fabric one that utilized individual bows like a passenger car. Similar to a pickup. I would think the 36 was considered a commercial vehicle.

Big Flats Rivets in New York. Google them.

Search this forum for who took over Kent Jaquith's business "Clean Sweep" I believe it is his niece who Kent trained. I believe she is in Eastern Washington State. Kent passed away a couple of years ago.

I had a Mallory point style distributor on my roadster for 7k miles with no problems. I would take the distributor off the engine, clean the inside of the cap, grind 1/16th of an inch off the rotor tip, put it together and spin it in your hand. If the rotor still drags on a post, try a...

I have only used lead on places like a thin door edge where it meets the jamb and strength is wanted. My metal work is close enough that high build primer is all that is usually needed. Like Mike said the overuse of it at factory seams is probably due to having less than perfect body joints...

This is a loss that can't be replaced. I will miss our email communications. A very sad day for all of us.

The stock senders will only accurately work with a stock gauge and vica versa. These were King Seeley brand and only work correctly with each other. Same goes with the fuel gauge.

Kube, "So, lots of lipstick to hide the pig." Yep! Outside the auction houses would be a place to sell mil gauges to measure the thickness between the surface you see and the actual car. They are pretty simple to use but so is a refrigerator magnet. I have never attended an auction and...

I believe except in rare cases the really good cars sell between people who know the car and they never get to an auction. I feel as previously stated most of the high end auction buyers are novices that fell into or have a lot of money but no real hands on experience with what they are buying.

I pry one end of those bastards out with a small screwdriver and after removing, then grind the one end so you can use regular snap ring pliers.

My old one (from the 60s) doesn't say TAIWAN on it anywhere like the one in the picture. It has always worked for me. Last used it on a pair of 81s on my 32 5w. It wasn't from Edelbrock either.