Recent content by Dave72dt

Get and follow the directions on the tech sheets for the products. Companies can vary somewhat in their recommendations. The companies have invested a lot of time in research to provide the best application methods for their products to help ensure a successful paint job.

I used a mini 1/4 inch drive ratchet on them. It's only about 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick. A 1/4 inch breaker would work too, It's not as thick as most ratchets are. Slow going that way but doable. If I had the body off would definitely change them before setting it back on.

I did one a little over a year ago. Front sheet metal was off. ALL the bolts were loose, removed the bolts from one side and jacked that side up, replaced the mounts and bolts, still left loose, then did the opposite side, replaced them, then tightened the bolts. I was working with a bare...

That cut line really is close to the body line! I'll guess it was recut to get it straight. Was some crown wheeled into the panel before or after the lower body line work? Always enjoy the tech posts.

'glass, like steel, doesn't like to be stressed. It'll crack over time if it is, especially if trying to pull it that far. You may have some underlying panel fitment on adjacent panels causing the gap. If none, build the gap up and use longer bolts

is the interior getting painted as well? How about the firewall, underside of the hood, jambs? Any parts that will be painted front and back that weren't from the factory? That all adds to the surface area and a panel has a lot more than a car. A gallon may be close on the exterior only...

It may have an external regulator. Check that. Replacement Ford alternators are as cheap and plentiful as the Chevy. If it needs replacing, take the old one off and match it with a new one. Then it's just lug and play. Switching brands may mean fabbing new brackets.

Hot or cold depends on the type of gasket material and the type of head. It's not a one size fits all answer.

I've got to agree with this as your first option for solving the problem. It really looks like something is keeping it from fully closing and the striker/latch would be the first I'd take out of the equation. Too thick or too firm of seal material can also keep it from closing properly.

Have you had the backing plates off and possibly switched them side to side?

I think you're going to find the problem is your light switch itself. Do the brake lights work correctly? Tail lights? Park lights? With headlights on or off? Get the test light or VOM out and do the tests on the bulbs, sockets, grounds, etc. Know where you have power, when you have power...

I used the Detroit Diesel color. I matched it to a bit of original color left on the bell housing. Dupli color and Plasticote both produce the Detroit color but one is darker than the other and I don't recall which one I used. I've never been able to find any documentation on the Lincoln...

The rear axle may be the small 7.5 inch on a 6 cyl car so the rear conversions for an 8 inch probably won't work. An axle upgrade may be on order.

You've got a problem with the centering in the control valve. It's an assembly problem. Switching the lines is merely sending the fluid in the other direction. The same port is being pressurized and is being run up against relief pressure. That's why the seal went.

All of these gauges have a tolerance range of how thick or thin they can be and still called a particular gauge. These tolerances may overlap, max on one size may be thicker than the minimum on the next heavier gauge. As for setting the MIG, the settings on the charts are a baseline setting...