Recent content by DannL

I will have to look into this accelerator throw thing. I've had this exact problem since the day I bought the car. Changed everything. I can get the 40 on a downgrade . . . sometimes.

lf I was avoiding work I wouldn't own a 90 year old car. Ha!

I prefer adjusting the timing using a timing light. I use a separate 12 volt battery for the light. I add a mark on the pully and a wire pointer taped to a c-clamp. Works great.

Finished my starter shortly after making the initial post. Replaced just about everything. Coils, brushes, button, and switch. Very pleased with the results.

I've been battling the dreaded "drip" for a year. 2 different carburetors, first a Tillotson and now a Zenith 2. Three shut-off valves. Shims in the carb, etc. Cold weather is worse than hot. When I'm done for the day I run the carburetor almost dry and that seems to help. Ultimately the problem...

I suspect thermal exspansion was a concern when designing long tubes which will be exposed to varying temps and carrying fuel. Brass and Aluminum would not be my first choice. For a short time I used modern fuel hose, and then replaced that with a new steel fuel line. If nothing else . . . I...

I love it. Can't be any worse than being run over by my Model A. You would die a very very slow and agonizing death, from dripping oil and hot radiator fluid. At least with the Eviscerator you could drill some holes in tennis balls and put them over those bolts. ;-) Thanks for posting. PS...

I had replaced all of the wiring in the car with modern braided copper in the spring. The curcuit the runs from the battery and ends up at the relay was beefed up to the next larger guage. Then the circuit is fused at 30 amps. That fuse did not blow. Since the contacts stuck closed on the edge...

My desire to stay with an original style relay, overwhelmed my sense of safety. The shorted relay completely discharged the fully charged battery without burning it up. Having just worked on the generator the week prior may have helped prevent that fire. My starter is now rebuilt, so might as...

Learned, for the most part, why this import relay (Taiwan) stuck closed. The relay contacts are not parallel or square to each other. In fact, they're not even directly in line with one another. This left only one edge of a contact carrying all of the current. The relay "insides" looks like it...

Well, the culprit was not the starter after all. Although this last adventure accentuated the starter as getting ready to fail, it's now in the middle of being rebuilt. The problem was the new cut-out relay (original style) that was installed two weeks ago. I should have expected this. It did...

I carry a pdf version of a 1928 copy of the instruction manual on my phone. It is also a Form 1940.

In my starter there appears to be just one field coil insulator. Is there a proper location where the insulator should reside? Or is the insulator properly installed as depicted in the picture? https://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A11087.html

I don't know what I was expecting to see, but here's a look at the windings from a rebuild I'm attempting.

Any thoughts on what product would be suitable to coat the amature of a starter and/or generator (excluding the commutator of course). Polyurethane? Shellac?