Recent content by dam555

Oh yes, Rick's. I ended up letting my attorney handle Rick.

They may be shipping quicker but I've tried to order 2 or 3 times lately to check for myself and every item has backordered. At least now they call to let you know and give you the option of canceling. Its back to Snyders for me.

Dave and Purdy have it right. Not everyone is mechanically coordinated as others. Should they be denied the chance to enjoy an A?

I'm a couple hours south of you and could help haul if you need help, looking for a good block and engine parts also, let me know' Don

Looking for someone in central Indiana around the Kokomo area that I can run things past and use as a mentor. I have a 31 Coupe and a 30 Tudor that I am learning on as I go. Thanks. Don

use a polarizing filter on your camera, it will do away with must reflections

Obenchain Boyer made in Logansport, Indiana, very likely had a set of brass chemical tanks in the back bed

my new Goodyears say "Made in USA, Akron, Ohio"

Thanks Bob, it appears to be an AA rod

yes I meant draglink, mind thought one, thing fingers wrote another

Any tips on replaceing a worn tie rod? It appears the pittman arm has rubbed a flat spot on the tierod, it is also a larger diameter than a stock Model A tierod. My first thought is to measure the current tierod length and then set the new one up at that length to start out. Any tips would be...

Where in central Indiana? I'd like to take a look at it if possible

done

my steering arms and pitman arms were all still round, the kingpins have no wobble at all that can be felt

I have a 1930 sedan which going down the road if you hit a bump will start shaking severely. I have checked the kingpins and they are tight, I used one of the teflon rebuild kits on the tierod ends and pittman arm. I still have considerable front to back play on the sector shaft/pittman arm...