Recent content by CYB4

I use cheap 20W-50 multigrade SAE oil and everything is fine. I added an oil filter kit to the right side of the engine and I change the oil every 2000 mls.

We did all this step, Dave ��

Here the same, 80 kmh or 50 mph are ok on long distance trips with a stock Tudor on German roads. You feel comfortable with the engine, the car is more limited due to the brakes and the suspension ;-)

I also have the standard FSI distributor in my 1930 Tudor and it runs perfect. Also minus 3 Degrees at idle.

At my Tudor it was a cracked cylinder head, at heavy load uphills or high speed the combustion gases went into the cooling system, pressing out the water thru the filling neck of the radiator.

Servus from Bavaria, I also own a 1930 Tudor here in Southern Bavaria. We have a German Model A Parts Dealer near Munich, have a look at http://www.ironagegarage.com/Sortiment/OLDTIMER-Hobby/Ford-A-Ersatzteile-1928-1931

1961, still younger than my A

Yes i purchased them at a local automotive supplier by the foot from a cable drum. They were cheap and are working fine. Plug connectors were sold seperate and are screwed on the cables

I use non resistor copper cables, no problems at all. The engine starts and runs good.

Until today I got good parts by them, no problems at all. Also, a Snyders 5:5 Head and a MikesAFordable Oil-Filter with much cheaper freight rates to Europe than Snyders or Mikes. So they deal also with quality parts.

Rusty, Let us know next driving season within this threat, if you A is now ok during driving conditions.

Yes, it is easy. Just bolt off the old generator and attach the default wiring at the single stud of the new generator, reworked for the Model-A, you find at the suppliers. Just had the problem, that I lost the pulley of the new generator after the first 10 miles. I recommend to fix its nut...

Rusty, May be my radiator is closer to the fan than yours. I pulled the water pump together with the head, so I was able to leave the radiator in the car.

Rusty, I got these water pump stuts http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/pump-mounting-kit. If you ever have to change the water pump, you don't have to remove the radiator

Rusty, I had the same problem, at high rpm and also heavy load uphills I lost a lot of coolant thru the radiator cap. It was a non visible crack in the head, the shop found, which wanted to machine its surface. I installed a Snyders 5:5 head last winter and I am happy now; the coolant stays...