Recent content by cw253748

I forgot where I read it but when I retorque my head gasket I always loosen the nut 1/8 of a turn and then torque to 55 lbs. That way you get a truer torque because it may take more than 55 lbs. of torque to over come the friction of the nut to head

Btt

Does anybody still sell new steering arms for the model A? Synder’s new catalog only shows to rebuild yours. I can’t find them on Bratton’s online catalog. I’ve heard and read about horror stories with new balls put on. Thank you.

J&M machine shop in Massachusetts

Called the vender who could check the blue prints and give me the actual spec. Of the pitman arm and the new arm was inspect. I had to crank the pinch bolt a bit tighter and the pitman arm is now nice and tight to the shaft.

It’s a 2 tooth gearbox but that shouldn’t matter

Hello Ford Barn, I just bought a new pitman arm from one of our good venders and it’s too loose on the gear box. I tightened the pinch bolt pretty tight and it still won’t tighten up. I will call the vender tomorrow but was wondering if anybody else has run into this? The old pitman arm...

Btt

Looks like great weather for this day. See you all there.

Rain or shine

Btt

Model A day in Sharon Wi. is coming up. June 2nd from 9am to 2 pm. Swap meet, food, and shows. Over 200 Model A’s.

Just adjust your front wheels for proper toe in. Your wheels will always self center so that the toe will always be equal between both sides. You can’t drive with one wheel straight and the other toed in. Also toe CAN NOT cause a car to pull. Camber, caster, or tires can.

Good article in the newest “The Restorer” magazine about head gaskets. The author writes about the head studs should be bottomed out and then loosened 1 turn. I always have snugged up any studs I have put in. What are your guys thoughts?

Maybe even use it on the pins too