Recent content by cpf240

Perhaps see if the dealer has a Facebook page. Posting there might get their attention.

Diodes can fail in a shorted condition...

Engines were stamped when they passed testing. The number on the engine was stamped on the frame when the engine was installed. Read Steve Pluckers study on this process. http://www.plucks329s.org/studies/studies.htm

One other problem area is the rubber piece many use between the headlight bar and the fender. They didn’t have them when the car was new. Less metal to metal contact for the ground path.

You said this was a rebuilt original ignition switch, yes? If so, not to be rude, but are you aware that it needs to be pushed in to be off?

And do it in a well-ventilated area. Fumes are bad.

The switch is in the light.

I’m still new to the T, so maybe this is nothing... I know the T is normally a negative-ground system, while the A is normally a positive-ground system. Is the T like the A in that hooking up a battery ‘backwards’ is not much of an issue?

Balance

I thought I saw that Chaffin’s is closing?

Most of the time, that number is Max pressure, and it should indicate if that is the case. Max is what the tire can handle, and shouldn’t be assumed to be correct for the vehicle it is currently attached to. I always verify with the factory tag on the vehicle or the owners manual for proper...

Carry a pull-start rope from a lawn mower. Wrap it around the crank pulley and give it a strong yank!

Where did you buy the I’ll-fitting plate? No matter who the vendor is, I’d suggest calling and ask if one part is better than another. Places like Berts, Brattons, Snyder’s, etc will give you their opinion.

Not saying this is an/the issue, but if it still has the original pop-out ignition switch, just “turning it off” is not enough. It must be pushed in to disconnect the ignition. Not doing so can ruin the coil and drain the battery.

Perhaps to drain water or crud from the bowl?