Recent content by colin1928

Ray your on the right track measuring everything until you find that which is too tight Here are some you have not posted piston ring side clearance piston ring back space valve stem to guide valve lifter to bore camshaft journal to bore and the list goes on but any of these can...

I wonder have you ever seen a broken A/B rod ? Yes I can show 1/2 a dozen broken X style A model rods H style not so much

Ford spec for a C model head idle 18 deg BTDC - 34 BTDC deg total

Another old trick is loosen the nut off a few turns and start up the n engine the head will come lose normally when it warms up a bit

New seats will have inst5"ructions with sizes generally depending on material of the seats 0.003"-0.005" interference for cast iron I go 0.005"-0.006" in side valve engines

I think you may be better off stripping it and have a engine shop measure it all for round and taper and square with really good measuring equipment

Larry s method works well and I have used it with original style valves and keepers But if you have modern style valves and keepers it is easier to remove the head

Do not leave the loose part in there it will not help and only move where it is not wanted I would rebuild it or find a better cap

B X 1 sometimes 2

Good work hope you have miles of enjoyment

Yes it has been done before

Well designed tube headers should be equal length and of a diameter that makes for a scavenge effect that will give a decent power increase length and diameter are normally the result of trial on a dyno most of the off the shelf ones I have seen are not equal length so not much better then...

Nice work looks great

Dennis try loosing the front engine mount and raise the front of the engine to match the angle of the trams this has work for me in the past

Thanks that was great